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Whats wrong with his post? :headscrat

You should not put in the gap between concrete. How about some temporary hold downs such as concrete blocks or weighted anchors?

any time you put a thin rigid shell on a more flexible building material, its going to crack.

I would ask your building inspector what they require. For your miscellaneous items, just run a few 1" conduits over with your other items when they are done.

Plan for box outs where you think you will need access. Any other small things that pop up just core drill holes. You could put in a bank of conduit (5-10 pieces near your box that you could add to later. These would be flush and you could riser them and cap until needed.

Im trying to figure out how they ended up at the correct finish floor elevation? I assume the screed boards were set, and the sub grade was set. How did they thin it out, is the slab down 1/2"-1", thus not flat??? Was the sub grade all messed up and thus the 3" slab? Will water pool at the...

If looks good and no problems, then why do you need new ones? Have you thought about metal or composite roofing, and not worry again in your lifetime?

This seems a good deal. https://www.sears.com/craftsman-80pc-mechanics-tool-set-620pc-add-on/p-00921675000P

I like the Tork mega roll or whatever you call it and the stand.

A wedge anchor is one time use. You have to cut it flush or pound into the slab if ever move the compressor. A drop in you can take it out any time, just a regular bolt. Then the drop in anchor is flush. A titan HD anchor is like a bit tapcon. Take it out, and then fill the hole.

Look for some drop in anchors. This way if you want to move, you just unbolt. Or even a simpson HD titen screw anchor. Anything but a wedge anchor.

its hard to tell from the photos. Would need dimensions of building, layout of beams, rafters, sizees, etc. Then can do a analysis to tell for sure. What you have going for you is that it is still standing, and you should not get any snow loads!

Nothing wrong with that if designed properly. two story houses pre-50's were all ledger supported usually, due to the balloon framing.

I know. Sometimes people have to be educated on here. I have used that size before in a design.

It would be a special order. Its the most economical if looking at section alone. I dont think they are in the tables.

go with your gut. No one on here will know for sure, unless you provide a detailed drawing, lumber size and grade, lumber condition, and connection details. Wood is very forgiving, but a failure is a failure.

Use thermomass connectors. https://thermomass.com/

Dude! I read that as his slab on the mezzanine was concrete! :lol_hitti Is a wonder anything ever designed on here stands up!

Based on what you are going to be storing up there, then the LL could be reduced down to 50 psf. With that, a 3 ply 11-7/8" beam would work, the deflection is a bit more than I would like, but i doubt you are going to get the full 50 psf everywhere. Its going to be a heavy beam to place, have...

Hes looking for a beam design, I think he has his joists already.