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Open cell foam can have issues with moisture. Metal buildings tend to condensate and sweat, especially the underside of the roof. You don't want that condensation dripping down on your ceiling if possible, and you definitely don't want it dripping onto open cell foam. You need to have a plan for...

If the wrap that they added is an insulation blanket, you don't want to compress it and should just do 'option A'. Be mindful of double vapor barriers as mentioned by lakeroadster

Any pictures of your building? It sounds very similar to what I'll likely end up with. What evidence are you seeing of the moisture issues in your walls? Is the building conditioned at all?

High lift tracks should be available to get the door as close to the ceiling as you can. If you're going to have an automatic opener, I'd get a wall mounted unit like a LiftMaster 8500 instead of the traditional type that hangs down over vehicles.

Why spend a bunch of money to make room for "all the **** that is cluttering up the basement"? If it's "****", or "Clutter", and got shoved down into the basement because it never gets used, then just get rid of it. Sell it to somebody that will use it and use any money that you can get to help...

I'd have the vertical fixtures in your pic run on 3 separate circuits so that each vertical column can be switched independently. This would allow you to use the horizontal lights for day to day stuff, and the vertical lights as needed for specific tasks. In the interest of additional...

It's pretty expensive vs the 6 mil. It might be cheaper to use the 6 mil on the ceiling and run some furring strips from joist to joist to help support your insulation.

Some insulation is always better than no insulation, but for a ceiling in Ohio, I'd want R40-ish or better. Especially if you're spending 40hrs/wk out there. Blown in cellulose is the most cost effective way to achieve that, and as The Cobbler suggested, you might be surprised by how economical...

Foam is not going to be as durable as wood or metal, and there are some fire risks associated with it, so it may not be the right choice here. It's fine for a building where you just park stuff though, and might be worth running the numbers using it as your insulation material anyway if you're...

What about skipping the separate insulation, vapor barrier, and paneling, and just putting up rigid foam panels with foil facing? The thicker foam board is usually more expensive than OSB, but I bet the total cost would be very competitive since you wouldn't be buying 3 separate products. Foam...

My freshly built 32x48 has radiant barrier between the purlins and metal roof panels. It was installed to reduce condensation and keep the building from sweating and dripping inside. I have read some people that say spray foam doesn't play nice with the radiant barrier, but you'd have to talk to...

The shop clock thread got me wondering about something like this the other day, but I didn't know that it actually existed. I've got some googling to do!

There are countless threads around GJ that discuss the various benefits and drawbacks of different wall/ceiling materials, so I won't go into tons of depth here about them. I mentioned the metal option because you said once before that this project doesn't have an unlimited budget, and metal...

Yep. Having a lower ceiling should reduce the amount of space needed to heat and give your small heater a better chance of maintaining a reasonable temp. I think it would be a noticeable improvement, even if it's not perfect. And the impact on your budget should be fairly low compared to some...

The gain from insulating the ceiling above your workout area will be minimal until the whole ceiling is insulated. The warm air that would be trapped in that area would just flow out into the more open part of the building. But if you can keep that air trapped beneath the loft, by hanging some...

Sounds like Housewrap, which is a moisture barrier. It's a good thing that it's there. It's also a good idea to have some type of vapor barrier in place between the metal and insulation. Not having some sort of vapor barrier on the conditioned side of the insulation can create moisture issues...

Was it plastic sheeting, or a woven Tyvek/Housewrap kind of material? Tyvek is a moisture barrier, but not a vapor barrier. It's semi-permeable. In colder climates, you usually want a moisture barrier on the outside, insulation in the middle, and a vapor barrier on the inside. Vapor barrier can...

I think I'd put an overhead door on one or both of the end wall of your 16 ft wings. That would allow for storing a long trailer, or RV if needed, and would give you more versatility as a "drive through".

I think the OP is in the planning stages of a build. He's trying to take resale value to future owners into account. He wants the building to suit his needs, but doesn't want it to be any larger, or more costly than it has to be.

I know I already mentioned it, but if you're doing a ceiling, it's probably worth looking into metal liner panel. It comes pre painted, reflects a bunch of light, and will probably be cheaper than plywood or OSB by the time you paint/stain it. Should save some time compared to hanging/painting...