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Polyiso Foam with all seams sealed will be the only vapor barrier needed. Do not add another vapor barrier if it's fully sealed with polyiso/spray foam.

The 30 gauge Durapanel from Menards works out to about $0.66/sqft. The 29 gauge Pro Rib is stronger and includes a 40 year warranty for $0.73/sqft Either one will be pre finished in glossy paint, which reflects light and saves you time and money compared to painting wood or drywall. They're...

An attached garage may have different requirements than a detached garage. Many times, an attached garage ceiling is required to be Sheetrock for fire suppression reasons. You need to check your local codes. If allowed, I prefer white metal liner panel since its lightweight, reflective, and...

What do you plan on using the building for? I park vehicles in mine. Some get driven often, and others are long term projects. I put my doors on the long side of my 32X48 so that I could easily get any of them out at any time without having to move others out of the way.

First of all, there are two different materials discussed in your post. A moisture barrier (like Tyvek or Housewrap) is vapor permeable, but keeps liquid moisture from passing through. These are intended to keep the bulk of the moisture that exists outside from entering your wall so they're...

To answer your question about polyurea vs epoxy, epoxy builds "thicker", so it would do a better job of filling/hiding imperfections, and it may hold up better if you're dragging things across the floor a lot. That's really the only benefit of epoxy. Polyurea is thinner, but it's more chemical...

Yep. $50/month is a good deal for what you're getting. But it's still an expense. You've got too much stuff. Time to sell it and eliminate the storage expense while also adding to your coffers. Colin Chapman is often quoted as saying "Simplify, then add lightness." He was referring to race...

If you're going to seal up the foam board, then don't use faced batts or plastic sheeting. Either one could create a double vapor barrier which is a no-no as it can trap moisture inside your wall. Ideally, you'd have a moisture barrier like Tyvek on the underside of your metal, but it looks...

Rigid foam panels (preferably polyiso) cut to fit snugly between your framing will give you a bunch more Rvalue than fiberglass. Filling that space with fiberglass will give you R19. Filling it with polyiso would give you something like R30-33, and it will do a much better job of limiting air...

It's probably not something that is likely to happen very often. But if you don't install it while you have the chance, and you do need to remove metal in the future, you'll be cursing yourself for not spending $50-100 and an afternoon installing it when you could. It's cheap insurance that you...

Having plastic up there will keep your insulation where you want it if you ever have to remove any of the metal, instead of covering you and whatever is beneath you in a ton of cellulose that you then have to put back.

Steel liner panel for the ceiling. It comes pre-painted so you can avoid time consuming and expensive painting/prep work. It's very reflective to brighten up your workspace. And it's available in custom lengths so you'd have fewer seams/joints. It's also lighter than OSB typically. Wall...

Trying to plan for a future buyer gets really complicated. You have to consider way too many variables. Is it a large home with lots of storage, or a small home with limited storage where an owner might want to keep household things in the garage area? Is there a large yard that will require a...

Shrinkage is a known potential issue with spray foam. You'll find tons of results if you google it. From what I've seen in my limited search, it's usually the result of improper application. Either an incorrectly mixed batch, some type of contamination, or it was applied too thick at once...

Yes, you want an air gap

Wood decking with asphalt shingles, or metal with no decking? What kind of ventilation do you have? Will you be completely sealing every seam with spray foam to create an enclosed building envelope or not?

This all depends on your truss design. Figure an educated guess for the weight you'll be adding, add 10% in case your guess is wrong, and contact the truss manufacturer to see what they're designed to handle. 4 ft is probably too far for OSB to span without sagging. Especially with insulation...

Yes. I'd attach it to your framing before hanging the metal.

Yes to vapor barrier in the ceiling.

You may be able to skip that completely if you're willing to run the metal perpendicular to the trusses. But given the choice, I'd run the boards vertically between the trusses to be flush at the bottom. It will be more work, but it would be stronger and better able to handle vertical loading.