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There are basically an infinite number of variables here (size, height, materials, construction method, whether any site prep was performed and how much, type of concrete, finishes, when the work was done, etc) that make it pretty difficult to do an "apples to apples" comparison. You might post...

Condensation needs 2 things to form, moisture and a difference in temperature. The more you have of one thing, the less you need of the other. So if there's a bunch of moisture in the building, even a temp difference of a few degrees (F) can be enough for condensation to form on the cool...

I think we're on the same basic page. My general point is that a budget of up to $150/ month isn't going to finance very much unless you stretch the term out a really long time. And then not only do you end up about doubling the cost of the garage, but you're committed to that part of your...

Another approach is to deal with the math and let that decide for you. A stick built 24X24 is probably going to cost 20-40k to have built (get estimates). A 30k loan over a ten year term is about $330/month. If you stretch it out to 30 years so the garage and house were basically paid off at the...

I'm about your age and similar situation and I wouldn't be comfortable doing that in your position. Your house is 170 years old, you're not that handy (so you'd likely be paying somebody else to do repairs), you've only got about $150/month in excess income (I'd want to be able to handle an...

Agreed with the suggestions to just do a stick built, or at least investigate the cost difference vs a pole barn that's been finished. A large part of the cost savings of a pole barn comes from the metal exterior and time/labor savings. With plywood sheeting on the exterior/vinyl siding, and an...

Mine's 32X48 (1536sqft). 32 is plenty deep enough for any normal vehicle with room to spare on both ends, and the added width gives me room for lift posts as well as a "shop" area that's separate from the parking area so that I'm not forced to do smaller jobs right next to vehicles. These...

It's probably worth checking with the local tax assessor's office to see what the county says the property's assessed value is. That would also give you an idea of what to expect as far as taxation goes. Real estate markets are extremely local. You need to talk with a local realtor or somebody...

Looks like a type of "F" Trim

You'll have to do the math using material costs for your specific location and based on your specific plan/layout/material selection. What's your stud spacing? What kind of sheathing? What kind of exterior siding material? Insulation? Interior wall covering? Etc. There's a ton that goes into it...

I'd guess $20-25/sqft for a basic building with minimal overhangs and features. It's cheaper to build up than "out", but there's no reason to make it any taller than you'd need either. That just adds cost. Things like overhangs, doors, windows, gutters, etc will all impact pricing, and can...

Lay a tarp or something on the floor, clean the trusses, then pitch the tarp and everything that falls on it?

Soffit vents and a ridge vent across the top.

With just 1.5 inches of depth foam is really the best/only option. It could be rigid foam panels or spray foam. If you frame the wall out to get deeper wall cavities then your insulation options increase. I still think I'd use rigid foam for the 1.5 inch depth that you've got right now. That...

Spray foam:

Asphalt shingles require more venting to stay cool and avoid damage for what it's worth.

This was my first thought too. Use another material to keep the block from getting wet in the first place. Tyvek, furring strips with insulation between them and then your siding.

8 inches of cellulose will give you R 28. It would take 4 inch thick foam panels to insulate that well. If you'd only be doing .75" of foam, then the cellulose is both cheaper and better insulating.

Button cap nails might work too instead of taking the time to cut up a bunch of cardboard and trying to hold plastic, cardboard, and whatever you're fastening it with at the same time.

Not really enough to go on. What kind of insulation was used, and how much? Where is the building? Is it heated and/or cooled? If so, with what? What if any vapor barrier is in place? Moisture issues could be caused by a vapor barrier issue, excess moisture in the building, a non-vented heat...