Upside down ramp inside the firebox so the handle can pull the door tight. Usually homemade stoves have a latch on the outside that doesn't pull the door in tight. This usually results in a stove that you can't shut down enough (always burning too hot).
Then realized hinges would be on the wrong side, so fixed that.
I like making the vents like this because you just need to slam the slide and it's 100% closed. Also you can pull the slide out with no tools to clean rust/dirt out of the tracks. It's also easy to adjust in the field by prying the...
So, the sliding door on the stove isn't working out. It's difficult to operate, and the black oily goo residue that forms on the inside of the door smokes when the door is opened (smokes into the shack).
Anyway, converting to a conventional door.
Played the first game of crib with the boy by the fire.
Drafts great/no smoke in the shack.
I do get some buffeting when the fire is young. The door is loose in tracks and rattles back and forth with the pulses. Not sure what the most elegant way to address that is.
Big comfy Costco mattress 39 inch.
I put the mattress on a plywood on my forklift forks and adjusted the height to find the same comfort as sitting in a dining room chair. Turns out 9 inch plywood height was just right.
Storage tubs fit perfect.
Glued and screwed a wood box. Really like that I can reach in through the door to fill this one.
Looks real nice when square with the wall, but angled is easier to load, and offers more clearance for the counter top that will go to the left.
Finally got around to the chimney and stove.
Bent the 12x12 piece of 304 and punched an egg shaped hole with plasma.
I don't use the big bessey often, but when I do. :smokin:
That's what I did.
A year after I bought my 1937 home we noticed a black spot starting on the basement ceiling drywall. It was a corroded/leaky galvanized pipe.
I proceeded to remove all ceiling drywall in the basement and replaced every inch of both drain line and supply line in the entire...
I've been thinking about similar issue for years now wanting to finish out my warehouse roof.
I've got 16 inch I joist roof, 48 feet from eave to peak (has midspan support wall). I cut the holes in the blocking as big as allowed, and it's still not enough area to satisfy the shingle...
Go for it. It's just poop-water.
I once built a duct to adapt a new furnace to an old plenum using cereal box cardboard, then wrapped the whole solid with a roll of aluminum foil tape. Pretty sure it's still like that today (20 years later).