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That's awesome, and very nice! Thanks for posting. What's the height of that beam? Do you know how the beam is attached to the trusses? Are they regular floor trusses?

I don't have building dimensions because I'm not putting up a building. The 40' I referred to was a beam length. That beam would be perpendicular to the wooden trusses. It could be a 40 foot long building that is 12 feet wide. Or 30 feet wide. The trusses would span the smaller dimension. You...

Because a beam that can hold 1 ton or 2 tons and span 40 feet would be very, very tall and very, very expensive. If the trusses were designed to hang a beam I could use a cheap, small beam (like 4") and not lose 20" of headroom under the existing trusses.

Of course they are. An advantage would be that the truss does not need to have a large void in the middle like attic trusses do.

Financially insane? Would that not also apply to "attic" trusses? If a truss built to hold a load on the bottom chord was crazy expensive (be it a trolley beam, or attic floor) then you wouldn't see attic trusses being built. You would see people frame up a full second floor, then put the roof...

I didn't say I was going to site build anything. I'm asking why I can't find any pictures online showing trusses that someone bought and installed after doing exactly what you just said, having a truss company design, quote and build trusses made to also hold a trolley beam.

I am not talking about adding a beam to an existing truss. As I said, everyone knows if you do you'll die. I am asking why I can't find any pictures or reference on google that shows some guy who built a garage and had trusses designed to also support a trolley beam. I know there is not a...

Everyone says not to attach a trolley beam to the bottom chord of roof trusses 'cause you'll die. Why can't I find any trusses that were made (engineered) to also hold a trolley beam? What does a regular garage roof truss look like that was stamped to also hold a trolley beam?

Well, I can tell you for certain that those ball ends are NOT for "final torquing" of non-ferrous set screws (the type you find on electrical equipment).

No! Astro is engineering and designing novel tools. Support them! (and they're american). AND they have a presence on this site and offer advice and listen to feedback. That alone should be enough reason to support them.

I wouldn't build anything until I had the parts on hand. Once you have the parts you'll know the hole size?

That's stupid. There's only 6 lights but it's a 7 pin connector. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . yes i know it's the ground

You don't weld.....yet. Time to gear up and learn!

grinder don't overthink it it's just gonna get beat to **** anyway

Maybe after fabricating you could add something gritty (lapping compound?) to a sacrificial all-thread, then run it up and down a bunch while loaded to wear out the nuts a little. The part of the nuts causing binding should wear out fastest...

Don't even worry about damaging the bucket. Obviously keep checking and do your best not to, but even if you do it's no problem, just weld the damage up. Getting rid of material is difficult, but adding material is eaaasy. Unless you're a complete imbecile, but if you were, you wouldn't be...

Fixed that for you. (you misspelled wheel-barrel).

design B makes a super floppy noodle, even if you installed a silly huge member for the entire top of the gate. Must maintain full frame around man door.