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I'm in the market for some long/low profile needle nose pliers. Specific use case right now is to reach several inches into a drain to grab a drain catcher that went down (so the low profile is needed to wedge in between the 2 concentric walls). Longer term use case is for grabbing hard to reach...

FWIW, I've had a few pros do similar jobs in my home(s). Water heater replacements in garages and gas cooktop replacements. None of them shut the main valve for the gas. In cases where there was no valve at the site, the gas leaked for a second while they swapped a new line on. I barely even...

Yea, I've got a box of these switches, so I'll modify one and swap it in. While I'm at it, I'll sand down the wall a bit for posterity. Thanks, again, for all your input!

I was delighted to take the cover off and see lots of interference with the ears. They were bending, so I was hopeful. Snapped them off easily, and while there was some interference remaining, it seemed better. Unfortunately, it looks like I really am interfering on the blue box. I could...

Your best code compliant bet is to run nm-b from your existing outlet up to the ceiling space to place an electrical box in the ceiling in the vicinity of the projector. The apple tv and projector could plug into, it, and the apple tv itself is easily concealed on the projector. This also...

Oh wow, amazing. I learned something new here. I had no idea about these 'ears' and their function. Makes a lot of sense. I'll see what's what and snap some pics and provide an update by the end of the weekend. Thanks everyone!

I agree, I don't like the look of the larger (goof) plates, but I can use one here as a last resort. For scraping the texture down behind the box top, should I just use sand paper, or is there an easier way? I attached a pic of the backside of the switch. I'm not seeing anything worth removing...

Finished product. Not a great patch job, but it'll do. I'll eventually swap the ivory cover (all I had on hand) with a white one. Any tips on how to get the switch cover to sit more flush? The wall is curved, but I don't think that's the main reason as it's off on both sides. I think the...

1. Awesome. I knew this, but it eases my mind to confirm. 2. Thank you for this. I hadn't considered only entering from top or bottom (I was planning to do one from each). This is a great tip and makes perfect sense why it would make my life easier. I've got a ~3-4 ft length ready for the loop...

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So now for the questions. 1.) For an old work job, is this wire run kosher? Obviously, if someone were to drill the drywall, there are risks. I have space with my holes, should I do any stapling? 2.) My old work electrical box will go back-to-back with the kitchen wall's electrical box...

I then cut a 4.25" hole in the closet ceiling for my recessed led fixture. I made an access cut in the closet wall that is shared with the kitchen, just below the closet ceiling. I also opened up the pre-existing switch hole a bit to accommodate a standard old work electrical box with wing tabs...

We have a closet that goes under a spiral staircase; I am adding a recessed light fixture. The closet wall that would take the switch for this light fixture is shared with the kitchen. The builder had no lighting in here at all. The previous owners did the following: Drill 3 holes into...

Agreed, solid thread with great info for a novice like me. Keep us posted, Dog.

And I use 3 of these (similar, likely different brand) at home. Running for a couple of years now with no problem, though they don't automatically switch the time for daylight savings (as promised). Like many other timers, the clock tends to fall behind by a few minutes after several months...

Interesting line of thinking. I use rat traps whenever I observe rat poop on my property and typically catch 1-3 when this happens. In the rare occurrences I have observed rat poop in my garage, I do set 1-2 traps inside the garage. Have never caught one inside, though.

:ROFLMAO: I'm bad, but not THAT bad :)

That's what I figured; thanks for confirming!

I have an uninsulated (except for the sections of wall and ceiling shared with the house) garage. It's got drywall on the inside and stucco on the outside. I live in a very dry climate (southern california, ~20 miles from the ocean which is far enough to be arid). I've punched all the way...

I'm usually not one to replace before it fails, but 33 years is a damn good run, and with all the issues with my condenser, I know I'm on borrowed time. For all the reasons you articulated, I'm replacing it now (early spring).