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Nope, not me. My shop has an 18' wide, 12' tall overhead door facing north. If the building blows away, chances are the door failed first.

I don't know how you build that building stud construction.

Ok when you say this, I'm picturing a standard stud wall construction, off the shelf trusses garage. Easy peasy, get your material kit anywhere. You want to build a little monitor barn. Not the same thing. I'd just guess there are some contractors who don't want anything to do with it...

You're way overthinking this for where you live. Go to a local lumberyard or Menards and have them draw you a building. Any builder should be able to bid from that. The lumberyards I'm familiar with will act as GC if you ask them to. What I've seen, overhead doors are the main fail point. If...

Whatcha building there?

I feel like you could assemble those in a different order than what he shows in the video to make welding easier. Unless there's some super space constraint there's no reason for the tubes on that X pipe to end up that close together.

I think people would be surprised how imprecise a lot of bikes are straight from the factory. An old school chopper builder told me one time that as long as the wheels are parallel to each other having them in exactly the same plane isn't that critical. Looking at the pics this is some manner...

No really, stock everything should still work. Shorten the sleeves. Deepen the bearing counterbores by the amount you take off each side of the swingarm. Your chances of success are way better doing that than trying to reman the mounting plates.

I got sick of reading. Has anyone told him it would be easier to narrow the swingarm yet?

The fence post that's sturdy enough to winch out a 10k truck will show no mercy to the person who goes off the road and hits it. Not a thing I'd do.

I have several of this style socket organizer. No complaints...

Know that I think about it, I bought some imported Williams extensions on purpose because they were knurled. The domestic ones are smooth(or were at the time). I see you can get a Tekton three piece 1/4" wobble extension set for $16 on Amazon. I like my Williams tools, but that's the route I'd go.

They have two lines, domestic and import. IIRC the domestic part numbers are letters and numbers, import part number just numbers. I bought import sockets for my race car trailer. They're plenty nice for where they get used, but not as nice as my domestic sets.

Harris frame. Manganese bronze filler material. I think they still use a TIG torch for the heat source. That ****'s pretty.

I like that you left the lid on yours.

Not mine, from a FB group I'm in. Like the idea. Don't know how well it will hold up.

Fun fact: In the 50s and 60s there were Top Fuel dragsters with sand bent chassis. I've sand bent exactly one thing in my life. Made a funky little gooseneck to hold a light fixture out of a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" black pipe. Varied the heat to control the radius(it wasn't a constant...

^^^^ This. Define your material. In my world anything over .095" wall is "heavy". If I were building gates or handrails or off-road trucks that would not be the case.

I don't know how you're going to get any smaller footprint than a JD converted to vertical operation. Whatever you do has to be stable enough to sit still with tubing hanging out of it. The main reason I bought my JD was the steel dies. I broke an aluminum die on my brother's Irvan-Smith...

Telling us what types of things you plan to build would be a good start. When I bought my JD2 bender years ago somewhere in the literature it said they had tested it bending 1" solid shaft. Not recommended, but it would do it.