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Oh, and I have the drum chucked up in the big lathe and ready to turn:

Once I took everything off of the backing plate, I had to decide if I was going to rebuild or replace the brake parts. The first order of business was the wheel cylinder. It looked like it could be rebuilt but I found a new one for $22 so replace it is. However, I still needed to get the...

After removing the drum, it looks like this: One thing that I had not expected was that this is the parking brake as well as the main hydraulic brake. I was expecting individual hydraulic brakes on each front wheel. Another thing that I didn't initially understand was the spring and...

This last weekend afforded me a chunk of time to dig into why this thing won't roll. If you've been following along, I narrowed it down to the parking brake being seized. Unfortunately, that assembly is nestled in the deepest bowels of the beast. So, after much consideration and deliberation...

Well, there are leaks but more on that later. For the most part, the older stuff is pretty simple and parts are (usually) easily made if not available OTS. This one does have a few obviously proprietary parts like gear boxes and such but, thankfully, those appear to be in good shape.

Good to know. I'll try that out as soon as I get it running and moving.

True but, from the research that I've done, they don't necessarily charge at low rpm/idle but can be wired to do so. Since that's where this operates, I will put a voltmeter on it when it's running and see if anything needs to be changed.

Ok, I know it's been awhile but I'm back at it. I managed to get a new propane lock off valve and hoses installed. I also rewired everything (almost) including a button for the purge valve on the regulator. I got a new GM 1-wire alternator to replace the old 6v generator and built a bracket...

1/8" is pretty thin. As Old Man Roger suggests, angle your torch in the direction of the cut on thin material so that it 'appears' thicker to the flame. MAKE SURE THAT YOUR TIP IS CLEAN! Most times, if I'm getting a bad cut, cleaning the tip fixes it. All of the blue cones should be the same...

I finally dragged it off of the trailer which took some doing because A) the drivetrain is locked up and B) the weight on the back tire exceeded the point load that the rotten trailer deck was able to support and it had fallen through. My friend whos trailer it is was aware that some of the...

I’m in Seattle. I just checked CL. Literally the only lift under 1k is a non-running stand-up Clark electric. There’s an older walk behind order stacker for $2850. Slim pickins. I found this one on my own and paid $400. Well, actually $300 without the forks.

Water-cooled flathead 170 ci (I assume based on the model #) inline 4. Cutest darn little industrial engine I've ever seen. The head is, like, 14" long:

Definitely agree as far as my old lift but not such a big deal on this one as it is a single rear wheel and pretty light. Steering effort is negligible compared to the other one. Not around here you can't. The only thing less than $1k around here are maybe electric stand-ups that need new...

On to getting it running. I got it to fire off of gas so I know it runs. The plugs look clean (on the important end) due to it running on propane: But, it definitely need plug wires. So, I'm hopeful that I can find some local. I may need to make a set custom. I opened the valve on the...

I have not but the mounting plate on the new lift looks a good deal smaller than the old one. Thanks for posting that link. I'll see if it falls into any of those categories. I honed and reassembled the slave cylinder: Then I removed the pressure plate and clutch disc. The disc was solidly...

Yeah, probably not ideal but it has to be better than the solid tire. Plus, it really isn't that heavy so I'm hoping for the best. I did see a video of one driving on grass so it can't be that bad. I've got the clutch back together and working again. I'll post pictures of that soon. I...

Pretty sure the first item is for picking up hay bales.

I'd grab it and put a VFD on it to get 3P and VS.

On to the clutch. As I stated before, the clutch is designed to be easily serviced. It's actually front and center when the access cover is removed. The pedal on the left actuates a master cylinder that pushes fluid through that piece of brake line to the top of the clutch cover. There is a...

Step one - get it rolling. The rear tire is barely holding air and there is no easy access to put air into it. So, first thing to do is figure out how to remove it and get it fixed. I lifter the back end and blocked it up and found this: So the rear axle is held on with a nut on each side...