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some vehicles have a centerbore that carries some load... but the studs are under tension and shear

that assumes all light gets radiated to the surface that all surfaces have perfect reflectivity all fixtures are 100% efficient clean lamps, fixtures and no degradation due to aging the reason the cans > flourescent? all the can light is in a downward cone, where as the flourescent radiates 360...

you say he fired you twice: on what grounds? how did you get rehired? it sounds like he was over-ridden by higher ups? I'd talk to HR or the big boss and tell them all you want is to work and be left alone you were fired twice (apparently for no good reason) and rehired both times...

first: your numbers are way off with the cans I would expect ~ AVERAGE of 70-80 fc (lumen/sq ft) but will be very uneven lighting... with the 2 tube flourescent ~65-70 fc both are acceptable levels... do some of each: area lighting use the T8's then use some cans for task/ambient lighting...

dirt cheap... a rule of thimb is 5-10% of construction cost, depending on services design permitting bid/handling the finances CM/inspection I would say for design/permitting alone 5% or so, unless he's using 'canned' drawings... that's ~1500+ sq ft...figure low end 30-50 sq ft for a cost of...

this is confusing: is this the main feed for the house/garage? or just a 100A feed from the service entrance to the garage alone? is the SE overhead or underground? is the wire from the meter box/100A CB to the garage panel in conduit? my understanding: SE into meter box (OH or UG) meter box...

68F/50% rh is a dew point of ~49F so if you window surface is less than 49 you will get condensation... here's a calculator to play with http://www.builditsolar.com/References/Calculators/Window/condensation.html what's happening semms to be normal with that high of a humidity

something is adding (or retaining moisture you add, showers, cooking, etc.) in the house... using the exh fan when you cook and bath helps alot... 8F/80% rh/~3F DP the house dew point should be very low ~ to the outside, maybe 10-20F higher or so...68F/7%/~4F DP, so even if your DP is ~30F...

so, we agree, the unlicensed can do the work... so as far as skill and quality of work, it is meaningless it's a revenue source and a liability assignment... and the Commonwealth of PA has no licensing requirement for electricians and only a handful of cities require it he's an electrical...

you need a business license, as I said... but the Commonwealth of PA does not have a licensing procedure for electricians... as far as I know, some cities license electrical contractors but in general, outside of the cities it's not regulated... in the cities, one person in the company must...

+1 Ardex, best stuff around I redid my garage floor with CD and it looks new and is holding up well... basically a $100 4 hour job a nice clean concrete finish

the prevailing wage rate (including all benefits, etc.) is $45/hr around here... figure $700-$1000 per day for an electrician, helper and truck...materials cost +15-25%

chalk it up to eyesight ;) known: 32W, 2850 lumen/lamp, 2 lamps per fixture, 30 fixtures, 600 sq ft, 13' clg I came up with ~170fc using the GE calculator factoring for losses, etc. (not in the program) ~ 0.7 x 170 ~ 120 or so the other program is 4 lamps/fixture, so we need 15 equivalent...

you're an EE draw up a set of plans/specs and get a permit (if you are allowed to do so, ie, PE) then seek several bids...then take them to her inspect the work as it progresses in PA there is no licensing for electricians...all you need is a business license, ie, tax number.... you definitely...

good call on the DP 68F/40 DP ~ 43F translating that to 6F (the humidity is ~homogenous as long as you aren't dehum or humid) yeilds a humid>100, not possible 43F/99% is ~ 43 DP OP turn your furnace on blow smoke where you think the leaks are, see if the smoke passes turn furnace off, and try...

the problem may be hydrostatic pressure floating the slab... water exerts great buoyancy force, 3 ft of water will exert ~186 lb/sq ft of force... if you have 4" slab, it weighs ~50 lb/sq ft...it will 'float' and crack also, the soil may be eroded allowing the slab to move...again, not good...

if it happened once, it will happen again +1 on some sort of drainage system run it down hill and tie the roof drains in to it

beuller? beuller?.... check out the house, was recently sold 2.3 mil http://grainedit.com/2009/05/27/ferris-bueller-house-for-sale/

thnx, I like the look... I'm in the process of converting my front yard from the typical suburbian, grass, shrubs, etc., to more of a natural landscape: large boulders japanese maples dogwood tall grasses wood chips etc.

amazing I like the one with the BMW CSL/Alpina in it... it has grass/perforated concrete in front of the translucent doors... I'm going to look at doing that to my asphalt driveway...drill a bunch of holes, mix up some seed/soil, and fill them in...