Search results

I know, it feels dirty to see that Snappy wrench in with a bunch of Mac's :bounce:

I'm pretty sure my Dewalt 12v used a 10 cell pack, thus 12v. http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/12Vdrill-1.htm That article is at least 6 years old.

Yup, made one a while ago for on-trail repairs. Since 12v is "old and outdated", people nearly give them away on CL. 14.4's also work. With the vehicle running, you're putting out 13.5+ volts anyhow. If you plan on doing an array of tools, you might want to check into Anderson Power...

Correct. You cannot run an inline splice in any type of electrical. You fix it by pulling a new conductor after the conduit has been repaired.

Use 12/2 for any/all of your 15/20A circuits. The cost difference is slim and it saves you from needing to buy a coil of 14g, that you won't use all of, just to run lights. I would recommend GFCI breakers over receptacles. At that point all of your trip indicators are in one location (the...

I actually have that set (well, the case is red). It's not horrible for what it is. I got it cheap and had a need for the TR Torx and the tri-wing.

I've always used heater hose... Works for me.

The Fluke 771 will do 0-100mA. I have an Extech that does DC only 0-40A in 10mA resolution. Actually, I think Extech has quite a few meters that do AC/DC in 10mA resolution. I know Fluke has a clamp for HVAC I think that does DC µA if you want to get really intense with it ;)

High frequency harmonics, seriously. As for the wobble light, it definitely sounds like an indication of a bad bulb. Those bulbs are typically good for thousands of hours, though it's possible it was damaged prior to use. As far as the bulb, I looked at Wobble Light, there isn't anything...

Yes please. I'd rock that in a heartbeat, it would like quite nice sitting next to my electric orange KRL. And I apparently don't need to worry about most of you guys stealing it to boot! ROFLMAO!

I didn't know they even made a plastic jobbie. The only ones I've ever picked up from them are the standard metal rails with 6 caster and a foam / vinyl upholstered back.

Why is Snappy too pricey? It's hers and it has a lifetime warranty on it. Start her off the right way, then you'll know she'll NEVER pickup one of those $10 hammer/screwdrivers/etc cheap *** "home tool kits". When you buy quality once, it only hurts to open the wallet once.

As Charles said, very few do DC amps. In most clamp meter you'll find AC/DC voltage, AC current and resistance/continuity. DC amperage requires a little more sophisticated bits, either a iron vane or a hall effect, where most AC only clamps get away with a current transformer. CT's are cheap...

I've had 3. If you've used a good quality tool-truck brand or even a higher end Craftsman, you'll never want to use a HF creeper again, but they're not totally terrible. I would *highly* recommend using red threadlocker on the caster wheel studs. They will come apart, usually shearing or...

I have this; http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=89479&group_ID=2441&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog and http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?store=snapon-store&item_ID=78299&group_ID=17086 I use them both quite often, they're great for just about everything...

I'll be sending Dad out of Wolverine Lake to go get that if it's still available.

I love when CL ad's are so specific and without pics. I swear some people just don't get it. On a side note, is it bad when you see a URL starting out with "southbend" you immediately think it's going to be something about a lathe?

I wouldn't think twice about pulling a dethatcher or spreader. Aerator... Maybe, it would depend on the type, if it's a "star wheel", then maybe, I defintely wouldn't pull a plugger behind it. And I definitely wouldn't consider anything like a set of discs or a single bottom plow.

I can tear down nearly every bit of my sled with the impact driver. But... You asked for automotive use. In that case, it's probably awesome for remote start installs, the Ford knee bolsters proved to be a bit much to break loose with the CTS561. I had to break them all loose by hand.

TGK is correct. Something like these are good to 1kv