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I used SQ D cover screws on a late 1960's C-H panel, they are EZ to get, worked fine.

The "UR" means it's a UL recognized component to be used in UL listed equipment.

There are some who say DP stands for "Don't Purchase", that DP contactor is not a listed product so it is unwise to use it for anything other than replacement on listed equipment.

Paint the conduit to blend in.

Home inspectors have the same value as a screen door on the hull of a submarine.

The Little Kickers have gotten rather expensive over the years, paid $189* for my 1/2",& $10 for a 3/4" at a yard sale that a electrical contractor was having up in Paradise, CA before the Camp Fire. *See that they are over $300 now. (n)

Using handy boxes should get the user 20 lashes for each box & loss of the family jewels, there just is no excuse for using them, one reason is that they are too small, it's like trying to stuff 10 pounds of manure in a 5 pound bag. A four square box & raised device cover is much better.

The panel is not "upside down" it's been correctly done instead of stupidly putting the main lugs/main breaker at the top when the feed enters from the bottom.

This thread needs to be in the electrical forum.

Finally getting to a single phase twin to this grinder & it needs a new data plate due to fading.

Arizona, had 3Ø for A/C equipment, using a delta breaker which is no longer permitted by the NEC, see the link below to learn a little bit about them. https://www.electrical-contractor.net/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/152376/the-elusive-delta-circuit-breaker.html

Tamper resistant receptacles are required in residential, Lowe's used to have some Hubbell receptacles that were pretty decent for tamper resistant devices.

My compressor has sat under a overhang at my shop for decades, older Speedaire (Grainger brand) 5 HP. Disco is adjacent to it in a combination starter, only single phase model I have seen, plenty of 3Ø ones out there.

There is one time I slid the conduit over the conductors as the pipe was laid, later pulled the cable out & relocated it to a new service being installed, was very careful when gluing up the couplings so had no problems, & it pulled out with ease later, (3 -1/0 AL conductors in a 2" SCH 40 PVC...

I call Generac “Generjunk”.

With all the brand names mentioned, you all forgot "Twistlock".

The fitting shown by the OP is a plumbing fitting, hence not a listed product.

Use a decent auger bit & not a toy spade bit.

It looks like ****.

Been a while since the Garage Journal standard recommendation of 2 2 2 4 aluminum alloy mobile home feeder cable w/ a 90A breaker has been suggested.:LOL: