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Used motor oil is carcinogenic. Using it as a treatment on a trailer deck is a bad idea. Using it to treat fence posts is even worse and is likely illegal in some places. I tried a variety of treatments for the deck on my car trailer and eventually decided that steel tread-plate was the best...

If you need to limit your current draw to 1 amp then I don't think an incandescent test light is the correct tool. What is it that you're trying to accomplish?

I can't speak to other brands but I've been using Snap-On flex heads as my primary ratchets for over 30 years and I've never broken one.

I like the cribbing with toe kick idea. I left the casters on since my objective was different but that's what I did wit the toolbox in my race trailer.

Have you tried a file? I'm all about new tools, particularly if they're power but I suspect you could do it by hand with a good file in less time than it would take to research other options.

That's a great idea. Thanks. I'm sure it's quicker than the dental pick I've been using.

One of our members (ellisjuan) sent me an IM asking about my experience with weld through primer. I thought my answer might be of interest to all so I'm posting it here instead of in an IM. His IM read, in part "I.... saw that you TIG'd through weld thru primer? Was wondering what you used...

I'll have to remember the Masonite and wax paper trick. One of my other race cars is a Formula Ford. It's a Crossle 32F.

Thanks. I use a laser level and shim the stands so that the tops are level for alignments and scaling the cars. I did build the stands so that they're level in specific spots on the floor but that only works for one car which I no longer own.

I stuffed one of my race cars into a tire barrier and rather than pay someone to pull the nose back where it belongs I built my own puller and did it myself. The long tube runs back another tube that runs across the car and clamps to the pinch welds. I don't have any before pics but I must...

The air ratchet isn't going to do anything except smash your hand against something from the reactive torque. Put your six point socket on there and the biggest ratchet or breaker bar you can fit and yank on it. If you think you need more than that then you might have a good excuse to buy an...

About 6,000 degrees F

It's not mounted to a wall but there are details on my material rack in my shop build thread linked in my signature below.

I love shops like that. Thanks for sharing. Did you talk at all about what industry or industries he serves and what types of jobs he typically does?

When I removed the curb in my garage I had to jack hammer it out and poor a new section of floor. There's more info in my build thread. Link is in my signature below.

If that RAM is a diesel there's a good chance it's too heavy for that lift. Get the truck weighted before lift shopping.

I generally buy expensive, quality tools. Mostly Snap-On. My one major exception is my 3/4" socket set. It's a cheap, generic made in China set that I think I picked up at a swap meet somewhere. My thinking is that in the large socket sizes there's enough material that they'll hold up to...

I keep the latch mechanism lubed on the trailer but I don't grease the ball. I suspect it's a good idea, it is metal on metal after all but, my last trailer has a little over 200k miles on it and the coupler is still fine.

I just jacked the box up on the low side and slid some scrap steel under the casters.

These days I mostly work on my race cars and at the moment one is a Spec. Miata so, metric and the other is a Crossle Formula Ford built in Ireland using a mix of British, Irish and German parts and that's mostly SAE.