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F@#$%K I saw April 5 and skipped over the year. Colossal waste of time, thanks for the heads up

Since this is preliminary, some planning things to think about: - Where's the house? This screams expensive car storage, because the garage now dwarfs the house in front of it, and with easy looksies into garage. Designer can't think of any way to minimize the look of it's function to make it...

Wood and nails are resilient and can stand up to a lot more than what paper calcs tell you, but unfortunately it's hard to weed through comments that are just eyeing it. Back in the old days 2x4 rafter ties were done every 4' or 6'. They are still required on a hip roof, as are some sort of...

You have some bones there to work with, a little framing and you're on your way. 1. Existing collar ties - good 2. Existing [email protected]. rafters - seem good for 18' span 3. Lack of ridge board - no problem 4. Remove bird stops. 5. Add rafter ties at every rafter (its code!). Attach to existing...

False! Stop saying this in threads. You do not design retaining walls to have a waterfall on the face. Unless it is a flash flood, sheetflow water only becomes itself once the ground is saturated. So if you have that much water still traversing down a hillside, you need to address it before...

Well usually someone gets hammered pretty hard for using paint from HD, everyone's being fairly nice. Yes, you already primed them so why pay more for 90% marketing 10% ingredients. I had to use their Premium Plus once and found no distinct advantage to it. And recently a birdie there said all...

You've received a lot of varying information for a 1' to 4' high retaining block wall. Just some things to clarify: - these are not CMUs ("cinder" blocks some say) that you build a basement with (well technically they are CMU, but refer to them as "retaining wall blocks." They are specifically...

Everyone likes to jump to "seal the space" right away, but forget that houses have been built in the south with vented crawlspaces for hundreds of years and performed perfectly fine with moisture. When you seal the crawlspace, it then must become a conditioned space per code, and if you have...

If the aerodynamics are right and you have enough air leakage elsewhere, snow/rain can blow in your vents. Especially if you are using multiple upper vent styles, like having intake soffits vents exhausting out gable vents simultaneously with mushroom or ridge vents in the same roof. Some of...

Ceiling fans won't do you much good except move the moist air around in the space. You need the outside air to enter/exit. You seem to have enough vents. The change in the dirt moisture level is key. The area of mold is behind the porch, so you probably have a concentration of water sitting...

Start with pencil and graph paper. It doesn't matter how pretty it is, just that you are communicating the important information. The worst project for both an owner and a contractor is one where the owner "points his finger" about how he wants it done. It will always end in disaster for one...

The minimum thickness you should ever use is 0.042. "Builder grades" are probably 0.040 or thinner. Even better to step up to 0.044 or 0.046. It does make a difference in canning and the nail hem.

Looks good RedWolf. Just want to point out for those that follow your example that your new "kingpost" struts are tied into new 2x collar beams (ties) right at the ridge. Future DIYers might try to tie into their existing 1x collar beams, some of which may be lower down, and that wouldn't be a...

Not to rain on this resurrected thread, but if anyone refers to this thread and is using Denwood as an example (post #22) for adding a ridge beam, there are some things not to do: - don't eliminate the collar beams (ties), as you can see his rafters are not connected to the new ridge beam...

Your roof framing from the pic looks like: - 2x rafters at 24"O.C.(?) - no ridge beam - 1x collar beams at the ridge - a couple additional 1x collar beams 18"(?) below the ridge - no rafter ties/ceiling joists - two makeshift trusses @8'O.C.(?) probably made after the fact to support hanging...

There are some things in this thread that should NOT be followed. In regards to RedWolf and Denwood's builds. There are some things to unpack from your photo, so will look at yours more.

You've fixed some details and they are better, but overall it is still very inefficient and a little misproportioned. I would suggest browsing a local for you architect's plans to get a feel for lay outs. The proportion of massing has a very skinny end on the Master side which makes it...

An open shelf really needs to be 16" or 18" deep to be capable enough to hold any general thing yet unknown that has not made it's way down there, but will eventually, so running along the long wall will give you only 18" or so to shimmy in there for access. You also have the sloping ceiling to...

So you're like Oak Lawn, but not the City? You are thinking of tearing off the existing roof and ceiling joists, and building a 2nd story gambrel roof? You may be limited by height, and if any non-conforming existing structures you'll need a variance which the neighbors will shoot down the...

Keeping these points to the exterior of the poured foundation wall, here's the best current technology can offer: - Mortar cant strip at the footing/wall connection - Footing drain tile, solid perforated pipe, socked, at or a couple inches above the bottom of the footing. Connected to sump...