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Use Simpson, and use structural screws as they spec out, not "construction" screws or 6 penny box nails.

Why are you restricted to the exact same width and height of an addition? How about adding the 1160sf on back, make it wider (without interfering with the septic) and higher.

It sure sounded like from your first idea of CMU w/poured ceiling you were building your band a crypt. Glad you came around to the double stud wall (I use this method for apartment party walls). 3 more inputs beyond what been said: - Use "Safe'n'Sound" by Rockwool (formerly Roxul) which is 3"...

Leave it. It is just a metal frame and may also have 1x verticals. Also someone may have attached the cabinets there. IIRC after I took out the door slabs I was able to remove the track with some difficulty reaching back into the door slot. New jack stud on the edge and ready for new casing.

As others said, chamfer the end just like the existing rafter ties. Full length should go right in. Add a strongback on top of these the entire length to counter sag.

Geez, is this actually a 30' diameter satellite listening for aliens? If it's a Dish or DirectTV satellite, they weigh about 25lbs. No need for overkill. I like to supervise with installing/replacing these nearly every time a tenant switches service. They install the round ground pole, and...

Your plan sounds like a good one to start with. Figure out what's going on with the eave soffits, block the gables (too small if used by themselves and can cause confusion with intake if concurrent with a ridge vent) and seal the ceiling penetrations. That ridge vent looks like the original...

I'm not sure how you can either place the bracket in the right spot or attach the post to a pre-anchored bracket if the depth of your footing is deeper than your elbow. And pushing dirt in laying on the ground to reach a deep footing. Also, even though the bracket keeps a gap under the post...

There could be many reasons for mold, as others suggest with bath venting and leakage through ceiling of warm moist air. You could also have the insulation blocking the soffits. There could be wood blocking as an insulation dam right over your top plate. You didn't say what kind of soffits...

It does matter for anything flowing through, there is a distinct difference between using the two. Water does still flow, however the vertical "dips" that occur in any corrugated installation can start to collect more silt. Think of a sandbar in a river. Nope, smooth wall won't, otherwise...

If your upstairs 4 season rests on proper frost footings, then it should not be moving to crush what you infill below. Down below, the slab can move, especially if not on a gravel base (however sandy soil drains well), but I would imagine it would most likely settle rather than heave.

A house built in the 1960s with a 2" metal pipe 52" down in an attached garage I would guess was connected to your waste piping, but is packed full or probably even rusted through. Did you look at all your runs in the basement to see if something goes out to the garage? Usually, you can only...

The stated warranty does not determine the condition of shingles. A 20 year shingle could last for 30 years or 10 depending on many factors, you don't have to replace them right on 20 years. If you were to put a 2nd layer maximum, I would only do it on top of 3tab. And some roofers will...

Can't tell from the photos, but whatever is there now, continue with the same. Or if its a monolithic slab with trench wall, then either, but CMU can obviously be DIY. But a better solution . . . Why let the water even get to the garage wall? What about water running over the driveway...

You will not get narrow estimates on these drawings. Since these are "dreamer" drawings, you will get "dreamer" prices (meaning contractor is "dreaming" of that boat). Two things which could derail this scheme from the get-go, so check zoning: - lot coverage (impervious or built structure) -...

NE IL Suburbia I get $4.75-$6.50 per SF for simple flatwork by others, including demo and base prep as needed. Many variables, but for a patio it should be on the lower of the price range.

With a tighter budget and a weary wife, it makes sense to leave the garage and give her something as well. 24x28 is on the small side, and relocating the doors makes you have a short 24' deep pull-in, possibly redoing a slope-to-door-slab, some stem wall work, and removes the house walk-out to...

It looks like you're set with use of the porch covers on the garage and house, so I'd leave all that and the garage intact. I'd probably continue two more stalls on the back, you can go higher and as far back to the treeline as setback allows, and still have it match roofs and blend in with the...

Kits just contain the same materials you would use if building from scratch: 2x4s or 6s, rafters or trusses, sheathing, shingles, siding of your choice, window(s), door(s) - they've already done the takeoff. You have to provide the foundation. There's a big gap in what different people...

Hasn't been mentioned because now you'd need septic and well for starters, and have increased your total construction cost probably 1/3, and have to pay heavy real estate tax on a homestead beyond that.