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I am in the first process of building a new home and garage which is the design. I am in California so the SO and I decided to use insulated concrete foam (icf) for the exterior walls. If you could build a home and garage, what would it include or if you had built your home, what did you wish...

Yep you’re correct. Took some time to give it a look over and process what is going on. The motor is ok, it is the control side which gives it a reverse feed to to the motor to slow and stop the motor from spinning. There is a contactor (contact) that is a pull type starter and stopper switch...

I have a sun balancer cwb-1762 that coast to a stop and it will take about 1 minute and 5 seconds for a tire to come to a complete stop. I looked up on YouTube and seen that after about 15 seconds it will self stop as seen in this youtube video provided at 2.00 to 2.20 It uses a Doeer...

Congrats to all and to all a Merry Christmas

bring it on b*tches. no seriously. BRING IT!!!

Roger that :)

did more searching and called devilbiss which they couldn't figure it out then called the service center and they said I should replace the 300 dollar intercooler pipe. Looked on service center website and found that that is the correct part number which the old number is obsolete...

So can i buy another Valve Safety 200 .25 Part #: TIA-4200 or does it have to be this one: Valve Safety Part #: ABP-9049020?

Thanks, I just replaced the unloaded valve but will need to double check for leaks. I'll try soap and water first but I should try the bag method because its what you recommended and there is a reason for recommending that over soap and water. I do have another thread I started trying to figure...

DeVilbiss PRLKC6580V2 (Type 0) A 6.5Hp 80G Vs Ol 2Stg 24 Compressor http://www.ereplacementparts.com/devilbiss-prlkc6580v2-type-65hp-80g-2stg-compressor-parts-c-8297_8298_418936.html So far I have replaced: Valve Safety 200 .25 Part #: TIA-4200 Pressure Switch Part #: 5140110-49 Valve Check...

Hello I picked up a DeVilBiss 80 gallon 2-stage air compressor for a decent deal on craigslist and I read on here that people recommend replacing the pressure switch and in-tank check valve. Looking up parts on amazon, ebay, and general stores, there is about a 10-30 dollar price difference...

Thanks for the drawing. It makes sense to distribute the load with two extra bars. Let me see what I could plan up. :)

Math..now I can dig this. There is no way a class 3/4/5 hitch can handle this kind of bouncing with a full load so how is it done?

hey mike, when I move, can i borrow your truck? can you help me move? hey i'm buying a new washing machine from costco, can I borrow your truck to pick it up? you free this weekend to help me move? etc :thumbup:

I modified the picture on the 1st post, maybe that will work? or is it back to the drawing board?

Jesus christ! This has been done with no ill effects. I feel like you shouldbt be fabricating. You just spout without any help at all. Why would they make the 1-1-1/4" to 2" hitch riser and allow people to buy it if werent ok? Im just making it taller than they sell.

Thats what I'm doing, I'm building a proper cargo carrier. I see what you mean, I'll redo my plans. This will go in the back of a car. the car looks like a trailer in the picture. Thats the extent of my drawing skills.

Why no??? Blue ox makes a 10" riser but the receiver is 2". Mine is a 1-1/4". I'm just trying to make it as close as I can to bumper when it is fully loaded with the adapters such as a 1-1/4" adapter to 2" then a riser, the HF cargo carrier sags way too much and scraps. I've done this 1-1/4"...

Making a hitch riser for my vehicle because no one makes or sells one to my liking. It's a class 2 hitch with a 1-1/4" opening. I have made up a picture of what I would like done but I'm not sure if I should use 1-1/4" hitch steel or 2" hitch steel where it would rise. It is for a 500 lb...

TTT Thanks