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Middle of door panel is the newer idea - old trolley operators often ran a straight arm to the top rail of the door. But then we wanted double car doors, and engineered windloads etc - and the strut got in the way and...

It's a 9100 - "composite" (aka cardboard) back face - pretty well identifies it. Because of install requirements - that's typically how J arms will be installed on these doors when using a liftmaster opener. Every Wayne Dalton dealer I know did it that way.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.wayne-dalton.com/Documents/5120-5145-9100-9600-Trolley-Arm-Attachment-Operator-Bracket-325001.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwi4pejVwNv3AhVVMn0KHflAC7MQFnoECAsQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0l_bXVkjKaKf4dUtJEQ0Ir And shows the optional strut install over the...

Ok, if it's relatively easily lifted - find out why it's not super easy - lube (not wd40) on the rollers. See if it looks like its running level - if it's 20ish lbs to lift it - somethings binding; just gotta work through and see what's stuck. Might need a bit more tension - look up your version...

You have springs - they're encased in the eggshaped tube. Still same purpose. Just different packaging. And no you don't use a traditional operator bracket on a Wayne Dalton 9100/9600 - he's got the updated operator bracket, that's what it's designed to use. 2 fingers light, disconnect the...

Disconnect the arm - is it 2 fingers openable? Most likely you've got a broken spring. Fix that - your opener just moves the door - springs lift the door. This is why it's breaking.

More clamps & hold downs printed. 24v relay added - so grbl now can control that spindle on/off at least. Swapped bad mgn12 bearing, Y still noisy in spots - spent hours tramming the bed; need to dig more into it. Thinking about it's future home (aka get it off my desk). Looking at that cobalt...

2$ Chinese endmill, but did manage to chew through some aluminum. Albeit slowly; bit of flex found in the oem aluminum spindle mount, think I have a plan to address that. And have to figure out why I can't get fusion360 to cut all the way to the bottom of the stock - seems to be a recurring...

"built not bought" lol - it once was a 3018 pro. It made 1/16th of a cut as shipped from the factory. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/RATTMMOTOR/?tag=atomicindus04-20 bought that - it was on sale and I wanted something different from the usual 500/800w options (and those all were out of stock) Then...

We need an everything cnc router thread too ;) I believe I've achieved my goal of an apartment suitable router - its a bit louder than the 3d printer, but not by that much - at least in wood. Aluminum, there's a lot more noise off the tool).

I don't recognize the label off hand. You might try scanning the QR code. Most of the time for low cost singles - home Depot runs a sale in July or august for their non insulated singles; the price was less than my wholesale cost. They weren't great but they weren't pure awful either.

9x7 not 9x8... 4x21=84 not 96

2 panels on a residential door - is the cost of a door... At least in my work life experience. Between uv fading and die wear on the embossing - even in the first year they look different...

I've done swap filament for raised - that's easy enough. My go-to for coloring the bottom is a syringe and nail polish cut with acetone. But those were petg prints not sure pla plays as well with acetone.

So haven't been following the 3d print hardware world much lately... Since the cr10 just keeps on keeping on. Well it looks like it's time for some repairs/maintenance. I'm running the original cr10s4, lost my encoder/button a while back, so been working around via usb controls, but now the...

You may be the only one ;) Less than 1 in 100 door shop drawings came back with any red marks besides "confirm onsite" - that was usually only for voltage/phases. "Hey there's 6" clear above the door, the sprinkler guy will leave you that much."

There's another option too... Skin it... Have done it a few times for some older doors that needed a look upgrade. I'll dig around for pictures but did one little 8x7 with .025 treadplate. Then he (customer) polished it and clearcoated it. It was fantastic. The continuous eavestrough and trim...

Floor ->shaft center +63"-highlift is the canimex 400-54 book calculation; you'd need to put a tape measure on yours, verify if your drums are equivalent and do the math. Note you're using "turns" in a different format than I am - I'm assuming you mean 1/4s, as you'd never get 38 turns on that...

Normally I'd say you're nuts mixing and matching random parts... Single spring 218x2x28.75 appears to work. 225 - you'd need 33" also single spring. Use the cable length formula for whatever drum you're using, it's not a guessing scenario - it's floor to shaft measurement, and some basic math.

Don't mind the mid-project mess. Man I can get nice prints if I stop trying to push print speed past 5000mm/m :) One of those PrintNC guys suggested trying the printed carriage before an aluminum milled one... And I had this Protopasta CF HTPLA going bad in storage (I've had it for 2 years...