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What do you think about fastening to the beam itself? I can use a wood to metal screw?

I'm probably going to put up one shelf kind of high to put old stuff on. I don't think that will be a problem for the technique you mentioned? Allen P.S. any special instructions on make a ship lap joint?

I've got a load of 1x12x10' cedar planks that I'm going to use for siding in my shop. I have a 3' tin waynes coating, the planks will be installed vertically above that. There is a horizontal beam 8' above the tops of the waynes coating. There is about a 4' gap between the top of the 2x4...

I had a sales person out from a local company to talk to me about installing AC/Heat in my shop. The shop is 2400'. While he was out here I also asked him to give me a quote to replace my whole house fan, it went out the day before. While discussing the whole house fan I explained to the sales...

I removed the petcock with a pair of pliers. I'm not sure what size the tank is. Possibly 25 gallons. I'll get a real answer tomorrow.

It's been out of use for a couple years. So the water has been setting in it for that long. The petcock doesn't even work. The handle on it just spins around. The tank has never been drained in the past, and I don't think it does it automatically.

I have 5.5 hp husky compressor that is made by Campbell Hausfeld . I bought it at Home Depot years ago. I just moved it to replace the broken belt, and it was full of water. I drained the water that was all rusty. I rinsed it until it came clean, but I'm not sure if I should just get rid of it...

I'm moving pretty slow here, but I'm starting to get some things done here. I used tin for the bottom 3'. I'm planning on doing plywood above that. It's 8.5' to the beam above where my wall is framed. I'll need to get plywood in 9' length to get to that beam. Should I frame above the current...

The orange things I was speaking of turned out to be a couple wire connectors. Sorry for the confusion.

I was asking about the plugs on the orange wires? There are two of them. I also have the wires and plugs you speak of cybrdyke. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been looking all over for instructions on how to run these in tandem? I guess adding a light to the wire diagram on the box will work, but I'd like to see it on paper. What are the orange plugs on the ballest for? Can those be used for tandem use? If so, is where can I order a kit to...

Platonic Solid, I did learn something. Don't you se me installing 24 t5 fixtures. I'm so excited to not be thinking about this anymore. Thanks for all the help. :beer:

I was planning on mounting the lights right to the purlins. Is it better to hang the lights all at the same level ? These lights have no reflectors, is that something that should be added? Kind of a late thought.

t5 assembly line. When assembling the lights I notice that the center connector, where all four lights connect, that some of the wire colors were the opposite from the majority. I hope that makes sense. I twisted them around so all the colors were the same. I did this so all the brown and red...

My plan is to get 24 of the 4 light units. I've already been to one homedepot. I got 9 there. I'll go get more after lunch. Check this out. I'm sure everybody knows this but me. This is a picture of two ballasts in my Lithonia lights. Is this normal, and if so, why not buy phillips and sylvania?

I think I've beaten this dead horse enough. I'm going to run around to the local HD's and pick up a bunch of T5's today. Thanks for all the help.

At this rate I'll never have any lights in my shop. :) I'm always want to make the right decision. Paralysis through analysis.

I'm considering starting with 12 LS8-80L-50K-10V . My shop has 3 bays, I'll put 4 per bay, 2 on each side.

Platonic Solid, any opinion or ideas on using something like this: http://www.grainger.com/product/ACUITY-LITHONIA-LED-Striplight-36UX12?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/36UX12_AS01?$smthumb$

I see the link now. Thank you.