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Have this Duralast 72T 3/8 ratchet, and would like to find a 90T quick-release version (if such an animal exists), to fit in the blow-molded case. Thanks for any help!

Anybody know if it's possible to get parts for this old Harbor Freight/Pittsburgh 4 ton floor jack? Someone other than me was careless and broke the u-joint. (Ignore that black rubber piece, used it to keep "handle" out of the way for the picture.)

Well, my riding mower wheel painting project is not starting off on a good foot! Getting a lot of orange peel (i think that's what this is) and general poor adhesion, ESPECIALLY on the vertical surfaces, can this be "easily" fixed, without starting over? And what may have caused this? Did I not...

If space allows, why [would a manufacturer] choose a Philips head button screw over a hex head (with or without Phillips) flange screw? The tools part is, I'd feel more confident tightening or removing a hex head fastener than a Phillips, or next, a socket head fastener.

Why do I have to "prime" my spray bottle between uses if it's not held perfectly vertical during usage?

Been looking at some of the old Duralast (when they color "labeled" them) torx/star sockets, noticed there were green bands and yellow bands, any difference in these lineups? (Green stops at T40, yellow starts at T45, maybe?) (Edit: hmmm, could the yellow ones I'm seeing be a custom paint job?)

(Humour me) Say you could only take one size of each combo wrench, do you take 6-pt or 12-pt? (This assumes you haven't taken the part off before, and you don't know which would be "better".)

Seems that using a vacuum bleeder uses (wastes) fluid into the collection cup, versus using the pushrod/pedal method that recirculates the fluid within the reservoir. Any advantage to one method over the other?

My first Ryobi tools were the (blue) drill/light combo, been going back and forth on making the switch for some time now. Currently in my "obsessed with tools" phase, and my son "needs" a cordless vac to replace the weak household one. (Had the blue ryobi handheld, but it gave up the ghost about...

Ok, I'm new to angle grinders and cutoff wheels, and I impulse bought a disc! (THEN learned about T1 vs T27 discs). So this "unicorn" that I purchased (top images), it's labeled as a T1, and is flat, but has a threaded "mini-hub", this seems unconventional, any advantage to this? Seems like it...

Ok, which wrench is better, i.e. "guaranteed" to remove brake fittings and such, the 10-12 flank or the 10 open/flare? Thanks! (Full disclosure, I bought a 2024 SK 10-12, and after reading various threads, realized I should've bought SO to begin with.)