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A quality epoxy system will easily handle oil and most all other common shop liquids. In fact that's one of the primary benefits a well coated floor, which is why many chemical tanks and secondary containment systems are generally coated.

Thank you for the update of your Wolverine system! I need to echo what a few others have posted... A good quality primer really is essential. We'd all like a simple, one step, solution, and chemists everywhere are working to develop one, but for now it's tough to formulate one coating that...

Properly installed and using good materials an epoxy floor will last decades, whether installed by a pro or DIY. Even in a heavy use environment a quality floor system will look great for years with just a bit of attention and maintenance. With harsh use one should keep an eye on the clear...

Probably the best grit for most residential use is a polymer grit. Unlike aluminum oxide and other grit products polymer grit has rounded edges, that allows for easy clean up. The sharper grit is tough to clean, it shreds mop heads, and can leave nasty road rash on uncovered skin.

Well as I posted generally grinding would be better than chemicals, but grinding can go wrong also. And we are addressing DIY, we've had some DIY clients have horrible experiences with grinding - bad media, uneven floors that take days to drind, dust etc. Grinding is usually pretty straight...

I'm saying that in our experience we haven't had any problems with BondTite 1101 lifting from a concrete floor that's been properly profiled with muriatic acid. Having used both methods, if possible I'd grind. But if I didn't want the hassle of renting and using the grinder (which has been...

I'd say that better than 80% of our DIY jobs use acid etching to prep the floors, and they all report results similar to our contractors who uses grinding. These results are with our 100% solids epoxy primer - BondTite 1101. Even our coating contractors occasionally use chemical etching...

Try http://www.gfloorgraphic.com Fred

A quality epoxy will protect the VCT and eliminate the need to wax, strip, wax, strip, wax etc. We offer BondTite 1115, a 100% solids epoxy specifically formulated to adhere to, and protect, VCT.

The cure time should not be dependent on whether or not the acid was properly neutralized or not (at least that's the case with our coatings - as always confirm with the supplier of your products). What might be affected by non-neutralized acid is the durability of the coating. If there's...

If you do opt for VCT consider an epoxy clear coat to protect it and eliminate waxing - stripping - waxing - stripping...

If you can find the real TSP, that mixed in hot water works well. The cat litter also does a good job. We also have a oil eating enzyme for the really tough stains. Takes a few days, but works wonders. Not sure what your final finish will be, but it might be that you don't need to worry too...

I'll just point out that one of our clients was the handy man for an apartment management company and he called to find out how to go about fixing/replacing a tenant installed floor gone bad, lifting and peeling. He ended up grinding and refinishing the floor, from what I could tell the re-do...

Missed the vinyl tile detail... Yup - a grind is in order. Hopefully the glue is hardened and brittle - that slightly soft stuff can be a major pain....

For an epoxy coating you'll need to profile the floor, muriatic acid is commonly used, but it has a nasty odor. We have a very low odor alternative, but it's more expensive than muriatic acid. After that's out of the way the coating itself, with our system, can usually be done in 2 days, but...

For a DIY project I'd say stick to the 1/4" flakes. But if you have a pro doing the install then the main consideration is aesthetics; do you like the look of the larger flakes? If so, that's the way to go. Personally I'd only go with larger flakes only if is was a good size space, 1,000 ft2...

Our BondTite 1101 will wok on that. We have some applications where it's >1/4" thick when cured, plus at that thickness it has a bit of flex. What's the height of the caps?

Fill sawcut joints or not to fill them? Primarily a aesthetic decision. If they're saw cut it's a fairly straight forward process, formed ones take a bit more work. What to use if you do fill the joints? We offer Integraflex 1921, a 100% solids epoxy that retains some elongation properties...

Over 4 years ago. You were one of our first DIY customers, thanks for taking that leap of faith with us! Four years ago.... Dang - I'm getting old!

It's really difficult to spec exactly how much muriatic acid is needed to get the job done. The Muriatic acid found in retail outlets varies in strength, anywhere from about 28% to 38% of full strength. So right there that will make a big difference. And then the amount/strength required will...