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The one gallon kit goes for $75.

Web site is being a pain in our ****. Working on it - slowly but slowly. In the meantime here are a few links with PDF docs to check out: TechNote on applying IntegraFlex 1921 Technical Data Bulletin for IntegraFlex 1921 The one gallon kit is good to fill about 165 cubic inches.

That's Scott's DIY floor with our Wolverine coatings. The LiquaTile 1184 top coat is Standard Gray, and the flakes are a premix combo - "Moody Granite". Scott filled the expansion joints with IntegraFlex 1121, a 100% solids epoxy that retains some flexibility even after it's fully cured. It...

Rent a typical floor buffer - about 170 - 200 rpm and use screens - 50 - 80 grit. Get a few of them, they'll load up or wear down pretty quickly. Clean with denatured alchohol, do not use laundered towels, you don't want any old detergents or soaps to get on the floor. Then recoat per specs...

Is the hazing on the surface, that is can it be buffed off, or does it run down through the coating?

If you want to smooth any remaining bits of fiber that are still above grade you'll probably need to sand them down.

It is possible to completely waterproof, but it's not cheap. Our Bontite 1101, a 100% solids epoxy, will penetrate the concrete, strengthen it, and provide a high level of hydrostatic pressure mitigation. However if you want complete waterproofing we've partnered with Barrier-1, and they...

That's why my #1 tip with flakes is to do a few practice throws, and #2 is to use small hand fulls because while it's easy to toss out another hand full - it's impossible to pick one up!

Flakes will make it tougher to find smaller parts, but they do have a few benefits... The cover a host of sins. If you have an older floor, or even a newer one, that has a lot of pock marts, divots, cracks etc that you don't want to repair beforehand, then a good coat of flakes will hide...

Check the msds or product data- if it's not 100% solids it will have either water or solvents added. Coatings are kind of like tires - you can have a long wear tire, but that comes at the price of having a lot of grip - choices are made by the manufacturer to balance one quality at the expense...

If the moisture is from atmospheric condensation, then the type of floor coating won't have any effect on it at all. If the moisture is coming up through the concrete, then the coating may or may not be effected by it. Before you can fix the problem you need to knows what its root cause is.

I have that dust shroud that Garageguy linked to. It does a good job, but isn't designed for heavy usage over a long time, but for your project it should do fine. One important thing to do when renting a grinder set-up is to tell the rental yard exactly what it is you need the equipment to do...

We have an epoxy binder that you add with sand to level out floors like yours. It's self priming and adheres real well, and it's very, very strong - much more so that the original concrete, so it won't delaminate in a few years. It's used a lot for loading docks and other high traffic areas...

Looks pretty cools, and it works well with the exposed brick etc -- very rustic and natural, I like it. Great job! You did discover one of the problems with acid stain tinting, it often doesn't result too little color saturation. In fact it's difficult to predict exactly what the finished...

A good acid etch should do the trick. Do not allow tha acid solution to dry on the floor, and neutralize it well.

Muratic acid will not necessarily clean the floor. It's not like in the movies where everything acid comes in contact with goes up in a whiff of smoke. Acid has no effect on many things, including dirt, grease, and oil. I would try cleaning any heavy stains, pressure wash, etch, pressure wash.

Not familiar with the product, but if it does have a light acid or bleach you may be up a short creek. The chem not just only removed some dirt & crude, but it may have interacted with elements of the concrete and actually lightened or changed their coloring. If that's the case possibly the...

Try a low speed floor buffer, the type used to strip wax, about 180 rpm. For the media use an 80 grit screen. It mayy load up, so get a few of them.

I would fill them first. Use a quality 100% solids filler that's formulated for the task. That would mean a filler that when fully cured still has a bit of flexibility to deal with expansion or contraction of the joints. If they're cut the process is pretty straight forward, fill just a tad...

Muriatic acid works by leaching calcium out of the concrete, but it doesn't vaporize that calcium. What you're seeing is that fine calcium dust. Calcium helps the concrete stuff stick together, and now the dust is sticking to the concrete, sticking well enough that it's a pain to remove, but...