That will tell if his meter is reading correctly but he still wont know if he has a leak somewhere. If the toilet valve is leaking it will do it slowly all day. For that you would have to take a reading Sat morning and then take a min vaca and check it again when you come back home Sun night.
I guess i should finish up this post. I ended up running my wires inside the track so you can't see them when the door is closed. Not perfect but easy to get to for repair and pretty much out of the way.
Well here's what I ended up with.
Got the saw, miter, six blades, a dato (I think) and I brought home this 113 bet sander. Gave him $160 for the package.
I might clean up the sander and resell it, idk yet on that.
I imagine its the same amount of potential energy that is released when your rubber hose bursts which happen all the time in our shop. Usually where the hose bends at the fitting.
I was always under the impression all lock nuts are technically one time use (tho I used them multiple times). If it have to be removed several times the blue locktite is probably a better option.
I know, I asked him a bunch of questions and he was very vague. Even if it has the stock miter (which it probably does but he wouldn't know) I would prob upgrade it anyway.
I'm sure I'll keep it for a while. I have a few projects that will require ripping some plywood and the table top model I've been using won't do more than a 20" rip.
I talked to the owner last night and he knew almost nothing about it. He said some blades and a few other things were included. So I take it that is a stock fence shown in the pic?
That's kinda what I was thinking. He's asking $200 but I think Ill offer $100. I've read some mixed reviews but I'm sure it will be miles better then the bench top model I've been barrowing for the last couple months.
I would run 2X4's parallel to you rafters 24" OC and attach 5/8 drywall or 16" OC and 1/2" drywall. Keep in mind that will add a lot of weight, Steel might end up being lighter and you might be able to attach that directly to your rafters but I don't know the maximum span for tin.
The other thing to consider is putting a few extra outlets in the ceiling and mounting some retractable reels so you can power in the middle of the garage without having to run an ext cord every time you want to vacuum the car.
I would only use 15a for lights. Use 12/2 wire for all of your outlets and use 20a breakers. I am not an electrician but from what I gather there really is no "number" of outlets you can run on a circuit. I made one circuit for each wall spaced about 5' apart and over 4' off the ground (that way...
3800 was replaced with the 8500. If you scour the internet you may still be able to find some old stock but its becoming more rare each day. Liftmaster does have a repeater kit avail for older vehicles with Homelink.
The only down fall to the wireless keypad that I can think of would be battery life. Put in a new one once a year just for piece of mind and/or the cell phone app you should always be able to get in I would think.