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And then there are others that come here, ask questions, ask more questions, figure out they messed a step up, fix that step, and then keep coming back to just read and learn more about electrical stuff. :-) This forum is a great resource and the pros that help out are appreciated GREATLY!

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He is from Texas, and a lot of the folks here think everything is a "god given right."

The pros have given you input. Take it or leave it at this point. No need for a "vote" if you have already, really, made up you mind to use the NM hack job. I regret looking at the other thread before reading the last few posts in this one now. To do it right for your welder, 10awg is...

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I hit the reply button to ask that exact question, but I thought that would bring me from informed potential customer to the level of a know-it-all-***-hole..... I chose to not hire him instead. I bought the SER and THHN I needed to finish the job myself instead. :)

When he cited "the code" preventing running a subpanel from a subpanel (first sub is less than 24 inches from the main panel (which is out of space) and then stacked the Al comment on, I opted to quit being "scared" of my freaking attic and finish the job I planned. Clarification: My house main...

Got a quote to finish my project 2 weeks ago and the electrician refused to use AL wire (#2 and #4) to make the run to the subpanel citing the problems from decades past. Not all electricians are as up to date on materials as you are, unfortunately.

I used T1-11 in my shop, so not exact but close enough. I installed 2x3s horizontally on the last layer of the frame (yours may need to be vertical). The 2x3s provided enough space to run my EMT (I used 1") between the T1-11 and the metal frame of the shop. I ran EMT because I used THHN wire...

Or the reason it is cheaper to put in a single GFI breaker instead of multiple GFI outlets.

Do everyone a favor, go read the lighting FAQ, the thread about light layouts, download the apps to make your plan, and then come back and ask specific questions. There is already more info on this site about lighting than you could ever believe or read. Most questions are answered. Most...

I wasn't going to chime in until you said you were going to frame it in. Here is what I did with a shop constructed like yours. I ran my main branches up to the ceiling from the break panel, dropped some runs straight into the "stud" bays where they needed to go, and then made some runs...

You ran the Romex on the outside of the wall? The wire must be protected from damage. Based on what I have learned reading around, you can use conduit as a sleeve for protection. Others will be along to answer shortly though.

Running 2 circuits in one 2-gang makes sense, but not for the reason listed. The setup allows you to run 2 higher amp things at the same time, not swap for a trip. If it trips one, it'll trip the other. I have 4 circuits (yup, overkill) on one wall right now. One set of boxes at 48" and...

I feel decently intelligent from my original design based on that info. :) On the main work wall, where all of the saw and such would be plugged in, there are actually 4 20a circuits. There are 2 levels of boxes (one at 48" and one at 24"), each level has 2 20a circuits that are run...

EDITED (Found my own answer faster than I thought I could): When reading ampacity charts, I have just used the 60 degree column because I don't know when to down rate the wire, but the cerro wire chart shows #4 is good for 75amps at 90 degrees. Do I have to derate the XHHW-2 if it is run in...

I didn't know the 20amps would only count as one if on different legs (leg is pole, right?). Would they count separate if each breaker was on a the same pole (just for bonus learning)? I think #4 and 60amps would be enough, but I would also be stuck with that decision. The cost difference is...

I didn't understand why there would need to be a transition when post 3 was made. Now I understand. I think, given the price of a junction box and Polaris connectors, it would just be easier to run the sch40 the whole length through the attic and use an uncut length of XHHW. Now I am even...

What size junction box would I need to transition SER to XHHW? 1awg is big and the splices are big... I thought I was finished learning for this project. Time for more reading.

Mike's response kills the question about RMC. I wa sonly calculating the distance outside. PVC it is now. I have read the sch40 in the hot attic (North Texas) is a problem. I think I may need to look at SER to avoid using the PVC in the attic?