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yeah, sometimes you cant see any cracks in the slide support through all the sh** on the vise. best way i have found to check is to open up the vise about 3 inches and vigorously pull up and down on the dynamic jaw. if there is significant play, then take some brake cleaner and spray down where...

The 1975 Wilton Catalog I scanned and posted here shows that the 5 year guarantee was still being advertised in 1975.

I'm sorry for calling you a troll. I just couldn't tell since your post was very anti-brand, and very pro-another brand, with almost no understanding of what's going on - just simply calling it "****". Why do you call it ****? Because the square peg won't go into the round hole? You call the...

It rinses right off the steel. It turns into an aqueous ion and no longer remains attached to the steel. Once you wash the steel down, it will be bare steel and will flash rust. There is no fundamental chemical change to the metal. No reduction in strength. Nothing. This is a surface reaction...

You can see bending all over the place. :headscrat Most of it is straight up brittle fractures though.

hmm....different spindles, but ok... :headscrat

That video shows the difference between ductile component failure and brittle cast failure. The base shows brittle cast failure - no flex before snapping. The slide and stationary jaw shows ductile failure - bending before snapping. But snap they do! The spindle/lead screw is basically flat as...

hmm...is that even a 1780 spindle part number? Who sold you the vise? I bet they just took a spindle off another vise and just put it in that 1780.

My Dewalt 20v keyless drill chuck works great. The drill itself is probably the best hand drill I've ever owned in my life. Never loosens bits, tightens without much effort. Standard Rohm chuck. The OP's hastiness to name Milwaukee smells like a troll. Do we have a list of known brand-name...

Phosphoric acid, 33%. Full immersion. Electrolysis has nothing on phosphoric acid. Phosphoric acid converts red rust to ferric phosphate directly without anode shadowing.

I wonder if it's actually the correct spindle for the 1780. What's the part number stamped on the spindle?

Don't throw away the old spindle - mail it to kmscott so he can fix it for someone :)

My understanding is that it happens because the steel C-washer wears down the spindle. Believe it or not, the amount of force only provides a subset of the amount of wear between two objects. What matters more for wear is number of cycles and lubrication (or lack thereof.) Think about a belt...

old school. have you tried using modern workholding vises? we use them on VMCs. They are awesome. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

I dunno. Quite honestly it looks fine to me. I can't tell from the photo since it's so dirty in the photo. Regardless, the original poster still needs a new spindle, correct? Regardless of the damage, these vises are simpler than even the most primitive Model T engine and therefore can be...

does your palmgren have some kind of anglock on it? i feel like it would be a challenge to hold something tight on a mill without a mechanism to keep the dynamic jaw down. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

I used helicoils on two studs when I rebuilt my diesel truck's GT2 turbo. Helicoils are awesome when they are used in the right application. I've never seen helicoil hate, ever. Timeserts are useful but helicoils are even more useful because of the reduced wall thickness requirements.

just buy a new spindle. If you look at the right suppliers, the brand new ones are around $100-$120. Cry once. The new spindle and retainer will last you decades.

Does anyone know why they load the gears at an angle instead of perfectly level?

some good stuff in there. mostly cutting tools. with refurb a bunch of the scissors and box cutters would be pretty decent. some of the people hating on this guy's collection of tools must be drinking serious haterade. lighten up? down with the trolls, i say. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk