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my go to has a 3" jaw, 4" opening, 28 lbs. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

I just repaired a Rock Island that was broken, so I wouldn't say they are any more "real" than a Wilton. Reeds break, Athols break. Parkers definitely break. I think it's the "this vise is better than that vise" attitude that is causing all these lame posts about vises. Gman made this thread...

I think it just demonstrates that a monkey can destroy any vise if they try hard enough. :p My C1's are tough but I treat them with kid gloves, like everything I own. I bet I could destroy them if I wanted to. Nothing is indestructible. Don't worry, your Machinist vises are fine. So is a...

First, there's no evidence that the crack originated at the back of the vise. There's equal probability that the crack originated at the front. I admit your explanation is plausible. However, I'm still leery of that explanation. I can think of at least 10 more likely situations why a vise would...

Give me a break. Pressing bearings? That's a laugh. :) Somebody hit that thing repeatedly with a 100lb sledge, smashed into it at 30mph with a steel bumper, or dropped it from 50 feet onto concrete. Maybe an IED.

x3 on running a hose on the intake to the outside, then putting the filter on the end of the hose. you'll be amazed at how much of a differencw that makes. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

i've tried several different things, from basic oil trays to the fancy schmancy ones with orifices and baffles. the only thing that ever worked in the long term for me are 5 gallon home depot buckets. the orange ones. the lids keep the oil in and they are easy to transport to the waste disposal...

This has to be a troll post. Laser safety glasses all the way. Do you have someone that works with you that actually knows laser safety?

The HF gauge looks like this. It's a very standard leakdown tester gauge.

Ahh, gotcha. Changing the gauge is definitely cheaper than buying a new leakdown tester! Just do it. It doesn't make your tester useless, you'll just have to create your own calibration on the new gauge to figure out the flow pressures. You'll have vague values, but they will be consistent...

1. Changing the gauge doesn't "break" anything. 2. The pressure number you see on the new gauge you install will be less meaningful than the old gauge. 3. If you install a new gauge, and do the test, and the new gauge reads 10psi less than the supply gauge, it does NOT mean 10psi pressure...

Hold up to what? :confused:

How exactly do you know this? I don't doubt you necessarily, but your numbers seem to assume an awful lot about the design of the leakdown tester.

I don't think you understand how a leakdown tester works. A leakdown tester has a calibrated orifice and the downstream gauge is usually calibrated based on that orifice. I have no idea why your HF leakdown tester has the gauge that it does, but you may want to consider verifying that the...

You're not wrong, but... This Wilton is mounted on the bumper of a DC Water truck. When you have an institutional purchaser like DC Water and they buy a hundred Wilton 1780's to mount on their trucks, they are not like you and me. They are not individuals. These vises are wear items and will...

For some reason, my plastic tool rolls always seem to yellow and break. The all fabric ones last the longest (for me.) Then again, I do a lot of wrenching and my tool rolls get abused, so maybe the plastics last longer in static storage applications. I have found that the best tool rolls are...

Case-hardening has one very specific meaning. It's a process where the surface of a material is hardened, while the interior of the material is left unhardened. That's it. "Tough" is a simplistic, outdated, and primitive subjective term that means nothing. In reality, you need to look at the...

Nope. With the same bases having been made for decades by Wilton, and an easily available replacement part, why worry?

My favorite is Super Lube 71150 (Silicone-free Teflon fortified grease) for the screw and all the screw contact surfaces. Transparent/clear, very slippery, and lasts a very long time. Also cheap.

Let's start with the "after" photos. Zinc phosphate coated (low-zinc process), powdercoated FED-STD-33446. Repair was done via Nickel-55 rod for the core (with the flux beaten off and TIG'd), then ER-70S6 MIG for the buildup. The neck was post-machined with a Bridgeport mill and 3/4" two-flute...