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That is quite interesting. At first I thought ‘what kind of a nut would have a collection of vintage garage door openers’, but now it doesn’t seem so far fetched…. And those door hinges; never seem cast ones before. Very stout looking!

Mine sure doesn't do that (only a 9' door tho)..

Although it is in remarkably good shape, it will be easier to build another one. I do like the Simpson connectors tying everything together. It's very stout. BTW, I can share a copy of the plans to anyone who wants one.

You guys are right. It's just added stress to an already stressful time. Stupid idea..

I hadn't thought about moving it assembled. Worth a look and then all I would have to do is prepare the new site. It's on concrete block and is dirt under. It's in a back corner between two large trees. I could just throw down some mulch. Realtor said most people will expect a shed. I'd...

I have a 10 x 16 shed constructed with Simpson brackets (it was a kit). It has 2x8 PT floor framing and 3/4 PT plywood floor. I remember it costing something like $3000 in materials when I built it 15 (?) years ago. A nice heavy duty shed. I'm moving and am trying to decide if I should...

Wait... so the tension that would normally be found in rafter ties is now in the plywood... If it were one big sheet of plywood, ok, but the plywood sheets are 8' long and are tied together at a floor joist (just 3/4" edge overlap on joist for nailing). Even if glued, that seems pretty...

It was worth the $2,500. Especially so because my orignal plan would have been over the rear setback by over 10' (50 ft setback). I tried to get a variance but the zoning board would have none of it. As it is, the new plan brings one corner of the addition to within 2' of the rear setback.

Here are some shots of the reinforcement under existing foundation. These 'setps' are poured, one at a time, cured, then the next step, etc.

Very, very impressive. I would also welcome more photos of the build.

Makes sense.

Thanks, Housewolf!

If I understand correctly, I want to splice in a 2" PVC T into the pipe on the left of where the P-trap will go (the shiny, vertical copper). Am I correct that I would have to glue in 2" pipe stubs on the T ends and then the Mission coupler (1-1/2" to 2") would clamp on the stubs (it's designed...

Thanks for the tips, guys. I understand about the possible excess flow for 1-1/2 pipe. I really don't have much choice, though, unless I rip out a finished bathroom, and even then, I know the main drain pipe to out of house is cast iron and my septic guy said I didn't want him to mess with...

Cool, thanks, Wiz02.

Or what about this? https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-835-015-1-1-2-PVC-Schedule-80-Female-Adapter-S-x-FPT https://www.supplyhouse.com/Elkhart-30368-1-1-2-Copper-x-Male-Adapter I would have to solder a male pipe thread adapter on end of copper. I've not soldered copper that large before, is...

I'm replumbing an area where a sink used to be for a washing machine. I plan to use one of those outlet boxes for the drain (ABS plastic) with a 2" drain connection. I know I'll need a P-trap in the wall and the pipe I'm connecting to is 1-1/2 copper. Since I don't want to take out a 2nd...

I did also wonder why he excavated to 42" over the whole area instead of just treches for the footing. He said he plans to backfill with gravel to ensure water drainage from under the slab. I'm not sure if that is a legitimate concern since the well (on opposite side of property) is drilled to...

My understanding was the code requirement for frost depth is 42" in this area (footer must reach to 42" below grade). I believe grade is taken to be new basement floor. It's only a single stroy house, so I would expect lower on the loading spectrum. I will definitely breath easier when this...

Yea, pretty much. As long as I can get good download speeds and watch Youtube without interruptions, that's all I'm looking for.