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Ha ha! I was thinking the same thing...

About 20 years ago I put up frameless particle board cabinets in the kitchen (body 3/4" particle board, front real wood door) and the construction at the back was a slot, 1/2" from back edge, that the cabinet back melamine (1/8 -3/16") slid into from bottom of cabinet and then 1/2" particle...

True but being a detached garage and across driveway from house, I’d have to shovel to get to it anyway. I may add a regular (man) door to the left or right of garage door too. Since it will be more of a workshop, I won’t be moving a car in & out every day either.

Ok, thanks John. I think carriage doors will probably be it then. I don’t see much information on the flip up doors. They must not be too popular anymore.

Is the worry that cables will slip off drums?

Thanks Guys. In a previous thread, I showed the proposed changes to my garage to raise a large portion of the ceiling to have more head room for a car lift. But the first 41" will be 8' (rafter ties will be there) and a ridge beam support will start there and go to the back of garage. I'd...

I notice the high lift door tracks angle back away from header wall at/near top of the door for clearance when moving up. I'm trying to get an idea what angle that is. None of drawing/diagrams I've found on line show an angle measurement. I'm guessing it's around 5 degrees but if anyone has a...

I like the styrofoam board idea too. Same problem in my shed. There's pink insulation stuff available at around 1" and 2" thickness.

It looks like a can reduce the likelihood of cable problems if I narrow the door to 10' and raise the max height of track. This keeps the door unbalanced with heavier end still on front side. I don't think it would be too difficult to rig up some compression springs to act on the top door edge...

Exactly, the whole reason for using the 'U' is to allow me to lift cars with the door fully open. I wonder if I could install a compression spring at end of each track to push on door to keep tension on cables?