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The rest of the garage. I took start to finish on this one...for the most part anyway. But, I need to do a lot of resizing or setting up an online portfolio. Figured it out, let's try this. https://plus.google.com/photos/111645481299634713996/albums/5939563713430979393

This was a grind, acid stain and seal job. This concrete was an 18 pack finish and I actually ended up planing the floor with the Lavina. The sealer is a 2 part water based urethane sealer. 2 coats with the second coat being a 50/50 satin/gloss finish. Stain is bronze and autumn leaf. I'll post...

Best solution is 4000psi hot washer with a turbo tip (rotary nozzle). The turbo tip is a zero tip (concentrated jet) that spins in a circle and will profile the concrete as well strip just about anything off. No chemicals, no strippers. Be careful pressure washing strippers as it will not only...

As another member on here just had problems with a polyaspartic floor installation, check their BBB rating, and review Yelp and if you have it, Angies List. Get copies of the MSDS sheets for the products they are going to use (they are required to carry the sheets for any product they are using...

If you are putting it down in an area that is prone to scratching, think about sealing it with a satin polyurethane. The satin hides imperfections as well. I will try and remember to take a picture of our office floor with the metallic splash effect and satin sealer. It has been down for over a...

I did an interior entryway for an apartment complex with a polyurea due to the smell of our other sealers. Even cut with the small amount of acetone, the odor dissipated within minutes. A polyurethane will have a strong odor that will last for days inside a house...very, very strong odor, I'm...

you can also add the acetone dye powder to the epoxy to color it, but you can't add too much because it is very concentrated. Fill it with epoxy and use the Preval method, you can blend out from the patch with it.

Yeah, not really a do it yourself product....not really for a run of the mill pro either. It takes some know how on how to get it out of the bucket and onto the floor and look even.

Fill it with tinted cement close to the color that is down, sand it smooth and flush, seal over the patches. With a preval sprayer and an acetone dye, fog over the areas to blend into the existing stain, then seal the whole floor. If you were in Southern CA, I could show you how to do this...

it sounds good...they make a great joint seal, but that is all I know that they made.

typically 1 gallon of A to 1/2 gallon of B, 1 1/2 gal kit.

I've always been told in the coatings industry, no sooner than 28 days.

cementitious self levelers do not work on flexible wood surface. It will crack in a matter of days of walking on it...experience. http://www.westcoat.com/alx-p-6.html take a look into that. it is not used solely for exterior decks and waterproofing. it can be expensive though, but you can go...

The sandpaper can sometimes be found where you rent the machine or at a janitorial supply place like Padre

just go random...I have a problem trying to make things look random because I am so OCD, but it may work out well for you. Second idea would be a rectangle or square in the middle of the garage, say a few feet out from the walls. Your initials? lol

absolutely...you can also use shark grip from sherwin williams

not a pad, a nylogrit or stratagrit will do wonders. They are nylon bristles with abrasives impregnated into them. The nylogrit is the less aggressive of the 2. It will serve a dual purpose of cleaning and profiling.

missed the part about the 3/8"...you went too thick. Sometimes the metallics will bubble due to the thickness that it goes down...see a lot of that

get a lawn and garden sprayer, cut the oil with gas and just spray the whole driveway...lol

24" push broom from hd with the red bristles will do wonders with scrubbing. Gives your shoulders a workout though. Burn calories while you're at it.