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Yep, done it before. Keep the handle at belt level and move the handle up and down to go side to side. Do not try to man handle it to get it to go from side to side. Just gentle up and down movements. I use these machines all the time around pools up to and including the coping....haven't sunk...

28 days is recommended before going over it with something else, i.e.sealer or cement coating. Not sure if you want to jump on it before that. Try a section by hand, you may be able to jump on it early to do a rough cut to knock down the high areas. At 28 days use the floor buffer to gradually...

Can't be too careful when you want to get the best, longest lasting results

It's trapped air. Sand with a 200 grit screen, solvent wipe and reapply. They do make pads for applying urethanes and I have heard people have good luck with them, but I just use a 9" 1/4 nap roller cover, or if it's a large smooth floor,I will go with an 18".

You can rent a floor buffer and sand with a 50-80 grit sand paper. Quickest and easiest method there. You can grind it, but why waste that much time and effort? Grinding is just too aggressive and labor involved for what you are looking for.

Here is what I have never understood; why would you open up a crack and make it bigger if you don't want to see it in the first place? I used to cut open all my cracks, and when I would go to do a clean and reseal, the crack would be a bigger mess than had I just left it alone. I chose to no...

Do you happen to have any pictures of the affected areas? Is it powdery or??

Why not use a pigmented urethane? I did an acid stained shop floor with a bow tie. I used a 4" grinder with a flat blade for the outline, and stained the inside with a darker stain. You could use an aqua color if you want to, but there is no rich blue with acid. As far as the oval goes, thats a...

I have nothing but experience with Westcoat products. If you chip into the clear, the chips will sit on top and have a different look. You can (not specified by manufacturer) use spray glue to adhere chips in a few places and then topcoat clear. I know from experience that this method works...

It is some pretty cool stuff. Some are easier to apply than others. Some require being notch troweled or gauge raked out, then rolled with a porcupine roller. After that coat it is typically sealed with a urethane. There is also a method of using a splash brush with acetone and a metallic...

You can also use a razor blade, but drag it, don't use the sharp side to try and scrape it. I have ran into this problem many times with cementitious coatings, but not very often with epoxies.

should be different grits listed. I believe the bottom one is called a turbo cup. Both work very well for prepping a surface to be coated. As far as which one works better....that all depends on the concrete itself.

the urethane that we do interior floors with, can have a lasting odor that sticks around for a week. just tells you that there is some good stuff in it.

you want a gloss, then a urethane is your best bet,... you want glass, then it's polyurea. both extremely strong and very much chemical resistant.

Do you happen to have any fuzz around the garage, looks like a tuft of cotton? Efflorescence may be the culprit there. For some reason it will pop the epoxy off, and when you scrape right next to it, it's solid. Just the path of least resistance.

Put the doors down to 8" or so above the floor, it will help. I just did a floor, and my second to last coat had 5 flies stuck in it...with wiggle lines. Little turds. Look at your tracks, towards the bottom should be some holes. Put nails or screws or something that will fit through the hole...

Show some pics when you're all done. Love to see the finished work. I'm trying a prototype stain out tomorrow that we are hoping to be UV resistant and work well outdoors. Each type of stain has it's own characteristics, but the application method doesn't vary too much. The sprayer I use is an...

Ardex feather patch works great for filling spalls and cracks. Epoxy when used alone will turn white, but you can mix in your dust from grinding to create a paste and bring the color closer to the floor.

When it chips, is there concrete dust on the back of the chip? The problem may not be the epoxy, but the concrete itself. Had a garage floor do that to me once, the epoxy never bonded because the problems with the concrete. With a fine cup 7" grinder, the concrete just flew apart.

Use the pump up sprayers from the garden department at the box stores and keep the pressure high. Mask your walls with 18" paper. Set the spray tip to a nice fog type spray pattern. Dampen floor with water, not soak it. Keep a quart cup in your hand with a rag in it and start your spray in the...