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Pretty typical for polycarbonate, unfortunately.

There are two main ways to patch concrete; with a cementitious patching mortar, or a synthetic caulk type product (polyurethane, epoxy etc...). A synthetic will give you better freeze thaw protection, patching mortar will look a bit more like concrete. Depends if appearance is more important...

I worked for a roofing company years back, before safety lines. Did a number of steep roofs with nothing but roof jacks and toe boards. Build/buy/rent a scaffold platform with height about three feet below the lower roof edge to start with. This can be 4’ wide with you moving it along, or full...

Not sure if this has been posted yet; but if you to get wire into split wire loom - this tool is cheap and awesome. https://www.cabletiesandmore.com/wire-loom-tools?srsltid=AfmBOop6GZXPSWMGt5qc1laYynOUYW2fpdlwYDl0fzvjArrs9lbLDwM6

For quick sharpening with good results: Drill bits - Drill Doctor Knives & scissors - Ken Onion Work Sharp. Neither of the above are the absolute precision best, but give pretty damn good results in a very short amount of time.

After you use baking soda, just take a die grinde/Dremel with small wheel, and buzz around the stud.

A good quality (Bosch) static 2 plane laser would work; as would a decent quality rotating laser (Spectra, Bosch). What ever you do, stay away from cheap off brand stuff. I’m a Const Supt., and I’ve seen a bunch of screwed up stuff done with cheap inaccurate lasers over the last few years.

Looking at LP specs, you can get it in a 47.88 width. Many lumber sizes have actual and nominal dimensions; like a 2x4 is 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” https://lpcorp.com/products/siding-trim/products/product-specifications

If you remove the t-stat housing, can you get locking pliers on the bolt stub? If so, spray with penetrating oil, some heat, and twist back and forth until it loosens. If not, remove what ever is in the way and drill out/easy out them. You can always cut an easy out down, but if you have room...

Usually sheet goods are slightly undersized if they need a gap; something like 47 13/16 vs 48”. Check LP product specs for actual size.

Partially threaded bolts are stronger than fully threaded. But in your case, I think a fully threaded bolt would be adequate. If you want, you could get 5/8” or 3/4” bolts.

Yes, you’re on the right track. You could order a fully threaded bolt, or get them an inch or so longer and cut off anything that’s too long after assembly. It used to be machine bolts were fully threaded, but I see a lot of machine bolts these days that are not fully threaded.

You answered your own question. How tendons are profiled, depends on whether the slab is supported on its edges, or is floating, or other. Generally, tendons are profiled to support potential sag in the center of slab. Prestressed precast concrete creates a hump in the slab, which then flattens...

You no nothing about post tensioned concrete. All PT cables have and need profiles (up & down).

Exactly. Mix non shrink grout fairly dry, pack it in.

Is this a slab on grade? Unless your base is really bad, then no need for PT. Pros of PT are you can span a good distance between supports, Cons are expense. Usually the only way to support a concentrated load on a PT deck is the build in a drop beam. You’ll need a structural engineer.

No matter what product that is, or when it was installed; the bottom board should have flashing over it. Best thing would be remove the bottom piece, add flashing, and install new or reinstall. For the 45 deg thing; you cut the top wing of the flashing and bend the bottom to fit the 45; then...

You can buy epoxy @ Home Depot and similar stores. Read instructions. Squirt it out until fully mixed. Brush and blow holes clean. Try not to drill all the way through slab; but if you do, just stuff in the bottom of the hole to prevent epoxy from running out the bottom.

bill, your idea should work just fine.

Me...I'd do epoxy hands down. Just make sure the holes are really clean; brush, blow out with air.