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Fiber cement board dust clogs everything. You need to blow your tools off at least once a day, preferably more.

For cutting off bolts or studs. Used by electricians mostly.

Currently mine are stacked in a bucket, not optimal. One of my retirement projects is to drill a piece of plywood for the funnels to sit in. Then I'll make some sort of drip pan below.

You could mount on thin fairly hard no too thick rubber pad, and then install a spring under the hold down nut. Cheap DIY version of a spring isolator.

No mullion needed if you go with vertical rods.

Assuming the building doesn’t have any current erosion of the slab base still occurring, chip out any loose stuff and patch back with a cementitious patching compound. Cool building!

A good well planned grid and soft cuts work well. I used dowel systems in warehouses, where the dowels are spaced 80’ - 100’, with soft cut joints every 20’.

As wissix stated, they allow horizontal expansion/contraction movement, but don't allow vertical displacement. Often used between slab sections/cold joints. If you want a really nice garage slab, this is the way to go IMO.

I'll start getting load calc's going. Lot's to think about. Thank you all for taking the time to respond. Great advise, most appreciated!

Hello; We will be building a new daylight/walkout basement home in northern Arizona next year. Winter temps into the 20's at night, 50's during the day. Summer lows 50's/60's at night, daytime highs 80 - 90. We have natural gas service to the property. R21 walls, R 38 attic. The basement will...

Put the bearing in the freezer, and the sprocket in the oven. Use gloved hand to fit them. Could use a bearing seal driver to tap them together if they're tight.

A wood saw is not ideal, but is fine for 10 cuts. We used a DeWalt miter saw to cut a bunch alum angle a while back. Get a blade for cutting aluminum. Go slow and light with pressure; 90 deg angle up, clamp piece down so it doesn’t get kicked up by the blade. Use a full face shield!

Lots of good advise from others. Add RC channel to your side under drywall, big sound transmission reduction.

To use crash bar style in your photo, you will need to add a mullion between the two doors. Commercial crash bars aren’t cheap either. Personally, I’d go a bit simpler.

We use dustless bits a lot. They work well, but the carbide tips are small and really difficult to sharpen. The idea of slurry and epoxy is really strange.

I get 550 lbs for 5 18” x 15” x 22’, from the glulam table.

Here’s mine I built a few years back. Works well for me.

OP - are thinking you can sit the glulam on Genie Lift rails? Good chance of collapsing the rails. A forklift on the outside and one or two material lifts inside, would be way safer. You may be able to get some scissor trusses built you could **** slightly sideways and then fit them along side...

I’d go with Milwaukee. I have those same Milwaukee tools, love them.

Remember, most dimensions are exterior to exterior. So a 37’ garage will be about 36’ inside; and garage door will eat up another 6” or so.