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This is what we call a “plug”, because they will plug up a concrete pump. It's a ball of sand and cement that didn’t get mixed with water. Most of our pours are structural with an on-site special inspector. If the inspector sees a plug larger than 3” coming down the chute, they will reject the...

How are the blocks attached to the slab? Rebar? How are anchor loads passed through to the slab? Answers to these questions will determine answers to your original questions.

I second Probemaster! Great value and quality. Made in USA.

You will have a cold joint, great spot for a leak. I'd bolt it down and do a stiff mix (3" slump) and pour slow.

Use some expansion anchors and bolt bottom form plate down.

You will have to anchor bottom of the forms, or it will lift. Also, use a stiff mix and slow pour rate.

I’m a commercial construction superintendent. I’ve built hundreds of buildings, none of which had sloping foundation wall/framing.

Yes, but after WCL are some number/letters grading strength etc…

Bohemian is mill name Standard is the grade. D Fir is Douglas Fir WCL is West Coast Lumber Bureau is the grading organization, can’t make out the grade stamp.

In that case either. If on top, you’ll probably need blocking between trusses. If you use hangers, the probably no blocking needed.

International Plumbing Code is 120 deg F, @ the fixture. 165 will probably fry your dishwasher.

Consult with your local power utility, they often have specific requirements. Underground power is usually min 3’ deep.

What do the truss specification state? You may need 3 1/2” minimum bearing, in which case a rim joist wouldn’t work. Check the specs.

I bought a Milwaukee 18 volt drill/driver in 2010; still have it and it still uses it's original batteries. I'm a carpenter; it's seen a lot of use. I have a number of other Milwaukee tools; the only failure I've had is my 3/8" ratchet died last year.

It’s chalk!

I’ve used a bunch of chalk boxes over the years, including Starrett. HanDS down the best out there are the Tajima’s. Lines won’t break even when really taught. They put down a really nice thin line.

Anything that can be while on the ground is good, as long as you have the lifting capacity. Sheet gable end, cut gable end for out riggers/ outlookers, install hangers on girder trusses etc.. As for bracing, go with whatever the truss manufacturer has.

Is the extension going into an oil pan or similar? If so, oil pan thread boss are usually too shallow for tapered pipe threads, just not sufficient threads on the boss to seal. Permatex high temp works well.

Dig it up? I thought the photo was showing OSB, on second look it’s concrete. In that case, epoxy some new bolts in.

Leveling compounds are at most 1/2" thick. You need something way thicker to hold a fastener. Can you add some backing under the floor?