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A cold saw requires you to operate the saw while cutting. A horz bandsaw can cut while do perform other tasks, which can save time on larger stock. Then again, this is garage journal; so buy both.

Yes on the OTC. Make sure you get the correct cups for the vehicle you’re working on.

If you can fit a small cold chisel in the recess, give it a good wack and use a wrench or vice grips to turn the cold chisel. Removed quite a few like this. If a chisel won’t fit in the recess, left handed drill bit.

Yes, but… If you have a good base, you don’t need a grade beam. Technically a grade beam is a buried concrete beam supported by two or more vertical load carrying members (columns). If you have poor soils, or expansive clay soils; you need to figure out how/what is going to support your slab...

Yes, read what you posted. But pouring a chunk of concrete on poor soil will not much good. A grade beam has reinforcement (rebar).

If your dirty is ******, then you to make your thickened Concrete a grade beam. I’d recommend you consult a structural engineer, or excavate and bring in good fill material.

If you use desiccants, you don’t want them in contact with anything, as they hold moisture. Place them nearby.

My two cents on fire extinguishers: In the ‘80’s I drove long haul and stopped at quite a few vehicle fires. We were required to carry 10 lb extinguishers, I’ve seen several 10 lb extinguishers expended on vehicle fires that wind up fully burning anyway. Fortunately in one case we were able to...

My in-laws have a living room that faces west. They had some sun shades installed on the exterior. Shades cut the bright light, but you can still see out. That set up was less costly than new interior motorized blinds. They’ve been installed for about 6 years, and have weathered well. Not sure...

We use them in commercial projects all the time. You get both plastic or steel in traffic rated specs. Trench drains work really well, just be sure to have some slope on them. You could also put a slope/swale in the concrete and divert the water that way too.

So the perp asks the intended victim to wait a bit before being attacked while perp goes and steals the correct hammer. Perp sees a socket set and steals that too, a set of new screwdrivers, hmm perp could use this new tool as well….

Have a custom stainless steel or titanium one built, and give her the bill.

Yes, you said plain, my bad. You definitely need a spec for the proposed concrete. 3500 psi concrete is fine for applications with a good base. Wire mesh will not stop shrinkage cracks, but will hold a cracked slab together. Make sure you have what is required by your lift manufacturer.

The most important thing is having a good supportive base. If your base is good, 4” slab is fine. What is “regular” concrete? What mix strength, what slump, etc.. What is the layout and spacing of control joints. Read Concretin’s guide to floor slabs, excellent stuff.

Be aware of required separations of different underground utilities, per codes and your local utility companies. For example, at least where I build, domestic water can only cross sanitary sewer at right angle, and needs 36” of vertical separation. Other utilities are similar. Contact your local...

Loctite “Power Grab” worked really well on most anything!

Hmmm, didn’t know TVR’s had Triumph engines, knew some had MG’s. If you have a fresh OEM engine I’d keep it. Not sure much of the drivetrain would like the power of your Ford. TVR’s did come with Ford engines, but probably less HP than what you’ll have.

Yes, 5” slab is 25% more concrete. Personally I wouldn’t use fiber. I don’t think it works that well, and you’ll have to run a sander over it to get rid of the fuzzies. ConCretin has great info on minimizing cracking.

You’re installing vertically? T&G edges need to be on a stud or the boards may warp. Horizontally T&G edges don’t need blocking.