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Sounds like you haven’t been there. Been there many a times. It’s easier to pin it with an air nailer then reach out and swing a hammer while holding something. Regardless my hammer has a nail set that I will use which replaces this silly contraption.

Ya looks kinda useless to me. Especially when you wanna swing a hammer or pulls a nail or spilt some wood. Seems like the nails would get in the way. And ya I’m to rough on my hammer. A decent carpenter can also nail set by hand quick too. Wouldn’t save much time especially when you have to...

When it finds its place it’s stays put. That’s why running the packer over it helps

Id agree. Last 2 I did I used 2” clean because they needed more fill. Then 3/4 clean or washed as you call it.

Clean 3/4 rock doesn’t need to be compacted per say. Because it has no fines. And I agree to an extent. But it would be good for a plate packer to run over it to put it in its “place”. We used to use lots of pea gravel for that reason. But generally speaking clean rock with no fines doesn’t...

X2......

5” to 6” shouldn’t be more then $250 in cement on his slab so I would say who cares. But a bigger thickened edge shouldn’t hurt anything.

Short coming of the contractor I’d say. Lots of basements with no water protection don’t leak. A big key is letting the water flow down rather than apply pressure. Drainage board or dimple board does this. I installed blueskin and simple board. Although now dimple is apparently enough according...

The shiplap edges should work fine. It helps ones final grade is packed to use sand as a thin layer to screed flat and provide an even surface for the insulation.

Maybe for corner for tin to finish into but not continue around. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I don’t wear gloves because gloves can slip. Also don’t use an adjustable wrench. Use the proper size open/box end. Usually 3/8 or the box end of a 7/16

Couples words on google got it

Don’t be lazy and find your own span table then. You didn’t say pressure treated so we’re idiots for not assuming? You said you were painting the wood. So what would we take from that? And most 2x10 are actually 9.25” tall. Something that hasn’t dried out yet might be 9.5”. It should go...

Ya agree with nemo. Pressure treated. No way I hell would I put painted lumber as a deck frame. Pwf if possible. I think you would be fine with 3 ply 2x8. But I don’t see an issue with the beam being 3” off the ground if the ground slopes from the house to let water drain away.

Lol such a small door. Installed 12 overhead doors last summer. A9 were 18x18 insulated with 3 big springs and 3 were 20x18. They make a proper bar to fit in the springs to add tension. You’ll get by without it on that small of a door. Ya be careful but it’s easy. I don’t install garage doors...

I did my garage on 32” centres using 2x 4 purlins for the roof tin. Don’t use 1x. Just make sure the truss is up to the load. The place selling it can tell you. And the truss doesn’t have to land on a stud if it’s double top plate. Which it should be anyway to tie the walls together a...

Been a long time. I’ll get some photos of house. We have been living in it for a couple months now. Just finished my office ceiling and gun rack tonight. Some of kitchen

I ran 8 gauge for mine just because.

Insulate under it. You will loose heat there. They are insulated all the time here in Manitoba. Use the proper insulation rated for the weight of cement and compact your full properly. Why would you want to have a cooler floor and pay more to heat? They are built both ways around here but my...

3/4” down is what I would use and call it exactly as it is. 3/4” down to fines. Packs nice. I would call yours 1.5” down. Cuz it has smaller rock. If no fines or smaller stone I’d call it 1.5” clean. That’s how our gravel yards work round me. I would think larger rock would be hard to walk on...