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The more venting the better. Not sure what this “drift “ theory is. In the summer the hot air will rise up pulling cool air in. Where the air comes in and leavings depends on lots including wind. Don’t block any venting with insulation.

RotoZip is way faster and a nice cleaner hole when you know how to use one. Mines corded but a cordless would be nice.

I buy from bc fasteners and kmstool. I issues with either.

If using treated lumber make sure to use a coated screw not zinc. Need to use acq rated screw or you’ll have nothing left in a couple years.

My house is icf from basement floor to main floor ceiling. The house is sealed effin tight. Put pen in basement slab. I wish I would have went infloor for entire house. That being said I’m in Canada and have a 3 ton variable speed heat pump with coils in the air handler for backup. The ac side...

I just had an xc20 installed..... 10 year warranty is standard.... as well on my hrv and my Lennox air handler.

Our provincial power company won’t run secondary underground longer than 70 metres. The secondary is usually customer cost and they will either let you have an electrician do it or they will do it.

Re: Wrong paint, now what? Why did the pro paint it if it wasn’t correct? Seems to me he’s slightly at fault if he wants to call himself a pro.

Looks awesome. Love the doors too.

I’m not sure what you would call it but they list it on their guideline for requirements. The inspector never made it up. First seen it in commercial and then residential.

The pipe wouldn’t allow for any movement though. As it’s too be placed in sand. Rocks shouldn’t get to it. Mine is snaked back and forth in the trench. Yes the lumber is required by the ahj. Feeding 250 through pipe would be a ****** I would think.

I’m also in the build your own camp. I built a 24’x24’ with 8’ walls. Tin exterior and a 9x7 overhead door and 1 man door. Cost including concrete slab was $9500 Canadian. Once you build some shelves you’ll want more space. I think your underestimating cement cost a bit. But I wouldn’t know...

Lol guess you should tell all the people installing hidden fastener systems that there is no reason for it and the inflated costs associated. I’d lay money on it I could rip out a screwed down ice rake before I could pull off a properly adhered one. I personally wouldn’t have filled the end...

There is also a lot of movement in tin and the fasteners with hot and cold temperatures. I would be keeping and eye on them for sure.

why would you want so many extra holes in your roof? I’ll be picking up the ones that you can basically glue on to avoid any damage to the tin. It looks good none the less.

My shop will most likely have 3/4” plywood for bottom 8’. Then tin above. And have the tin lap down the plywood with no flashing or a small drip.

Are those just a glue on snow rake on the roof?

He’s probably suggestion it to add strength to the wall if you happen to hit it with a tool or vehicle. It would take an impact much better. My roof has plywood under the tin. For a few reasons. It’s my house and the tin being on plywood instead of purlons keeps the noise down. Second I don’t...

Wierd....... how did the slab turn out? I get about 10 yds extra for the thickened edge over the slab at 16” thickedge with and 16” wide. Sounds like an inexperience and bad decision that costed you more money? The slab pour still ends up being the same size so not sure why the yardage matters.

How is a monolithic pour more concrete than a 48” deep footer?