You want a fully penetrating sealer, nothing that builds film because it will fail. Spray on the surface. Use a microfiber mop to spread, 2 coats wet on wet. 4” brush for vertical walls. You want to re seal that every year anyway if you’re in high mountains, the deck, horizontal surfaces and...
Either buy the Westcoat part A, just call them if purchasing a Part A is not an option on their website. Or buy a full kit from a different manufacturer.
Keep in mind epoxy will discolor and amber with exterior UV exposure.
It will adhere at first, but because of the deflection within the plywood or OSB, it will crack and de-laminate all over the place. Not really suggested. You could always pour a self-leveling synthetic gypsum like Schonox APF on top of the plywood to help with all of that. Still may crack in a...
See if they have a propane grinder and propane vacuum. You can get 2K SF in one tank of each most likely. One set of bits is more than enough for many floors, see if they will buy them back (prob not but worth asking).
You can definitely do 2000 SF but like others have mentioned you'll need...
Mist some water in front of your grinding path. Like Shea and Legacy mentioned, you most likely have the incorrect bond. If your concrete it extremely hard, you need a soft bond Diamond. If your concrete is extremely soft, you need a hard bond Diamond. I wouldn't expect the guys at Home Depot...
You are going to want to let that floor breathe for a few days with the garage door cracked or open. You just injected a ton of water into it via pressure washer and when it warms up hydrostatic pressure can potentially pop your freshly applied coating. A moisture test at minimum is recommended.
There are a couple way to attack this situation.
First off you can have your concrete contractor (assuming you and a couple of pals aren't finishing the slab) apply a Cure&Seal to the slab after they finish it. Pros: semi-durable acrylic coating, you don't have to apply it yourself, can...
I use Torginol on all my floors, so any pic posted is their flake.
You might want to postpone till after the baby lol. Idk how picky your woman is, but when I come home smelling like coatings, mine hates the smell :ROFLMAO:
Came here to say Rubio Monocoat. Sand to 120 grit, Vac, Solvent Wipe/Condition, Mix, "Wax on" with a 17" buffer and a red pad to rejection, let cure for a bit, "wax off" with a white pad, cure.
Welcome to the forum! A lot of info here, please feel free to use the search function and absorb as much as possible.
Here is a house/garage I did for a customer in Gunnison. The “downstairs” is a 4 or 5 car garage, with mech room, additional storage and wash room. Upstairs is kitchen/living...
Yessir! *Especially* on new concrete. Cleanliness is not the issue. Concrete Surface Profile is the issue! A smooth, power-troweled (or even bull troweled) slab will not accept high viscosity coatings, like one that has been opened up to, say, a CSP 2-3.
Removing that tightly trowled cream...
Nope, nope, nope. You need to mechanically abrade the floor using a floor grinder and diamond embedded steel bits. Hand grind the perimeter with a 4.5” grinder and a diamond cup wheel. Your vacuum needs to be on point for this. At least 200 CFM, probably just rent it with your grinder. The point...
Your first coat should have been a primer. After that, you would apply your body coat and broadcast flake into that. It looks to me from the pictures that the coat you applied is very thin. I always recommend using 100% solids epoxy and applying at 10 to 12 Mils WFT and broadcast flake to...