Search results

If I were the installer in this case I would come in, run a light grind with 80 grit metals over the flake, being sure not to cut through the flake coat. Rebroadcast flake into 8-10 mil of epoxy, scrape, topcoat with polyaspartic @ 20 mils DFT.

I prefer DNA because it doesn’t decimate the plastic parts in the pump sprayer in 2 minutes like Acetone does.

IPA works too!

It needs to be sanded, not ground. Like I mentioned , 17” 300 rpm swing buffer, 60 grit screens

Guys, again, you do not need to acid etch after grinding. Grinding is a superior method of surface prep compared to acid etching. All you’re doing is introducing water and hydrostatic pressure to your slab as a failure point.

What he said ^. The excess flake needs to be scraped and vacuumed, with a floor scraper to remove any loosely adhering flake and take out high spots BEFORE top coating. Top coat should be monolithic in nature

If you load up a handheld pump sprayer with denatured alcohol, you can lay an even mist over the floor once the metallic epoxy coat is applied and it will glass out the floor. An even mist is all that’s required and not complete saturation.

At this point the entire floor, absolutely, 100%, without uncertainty, needs to be sanded before the next metallic coat. Re-coat window is closed at this point. Metallic should be done in epoxy, not polyaspartic. The poly doesn’t stay open long enough to self-level and has a higher viscosity...

No, it is not normal to have to use joint filler on the metallic coat to fix imperfections. Sometimes maybe a small touchup, maybe. But you’d use the same color. Imperfections should be fixed immediately after grinding. That way they are hidden and not obvious. Ok glad he used a white primer...

Typically you would not use a black joint filler, for a white floor. WTF. That should have been fixed before it was top coated. you want all your colors from your joint filler to your metallic coat to be in the same color family so something like this does not happen. So he would have wanted to...

No you would probably have to order it. I don't live near any large home improvement stores, so I am not sure whats being carried these days. Vendors on here have similar products too, I believe.

Cure and Seal like J22 is a solvent bourne acrylic. You can mop on a waterbased acrylic wax or polyurethane wax and it will make the floor look brand new again and bonds with the C&S. Clean and mop it well with warm water to remove dust and contaminants, then using a microfiber mop and pump...

100%. SaltGuard by Prosoco is the ****. Every new construction build that I’m around up here I try to talk to homeowner or GC into letting me apply SaltGuard to their exterior exposed concrete. Heavy chloride gets used around here. Recommended to recoat every 2-3 years. Spray it on, 2 coats...

Grinding would be the proper method of surface prep here. Epoxy will not level that out and it will prob look like *** if you don't grind it.

This is the correct answer. I love the Edge Pro 80 because it has moisture tolerance unlike the RS 88 and it is a bit softer which lets it stretch and move a bit more, over time. I would suggest using this product BEFORE your metal bonds, very first step. Clean your joints, then abrade them...

Do you have pics? We have no idea what kind of floor you have or what the damage looks like. Generally you can clean up the spill, neutralize it, sand the area with 80 grit sandpaper, and re-apply the coatings that were affected. Hopefully shouldn’t have to break out the Grinder..

One thing to keep in mind, you cannot polish stamped concrete. You can either have it stamped, or make a move to polish a flat slab. Do you want a “salt & pepper” polish, or a cream polish? S&P is a small, random aggregate exposure. You can even go medium to large aggregate exposure but it...

What caused that is inconsistent mil thickness. One section has less coating on it than the other. You should inspect the lighter coverage area and ensure you actually have complete coverage over the flake. If you do, You could live with it and the difference will walk out overtime most...

did we just become best friends?

If you would like to enhance the characteristics of your power trowel marks and refine it, for a little bit of beauty, I can introduce to you a Honed floor that you could do with your Dimabrush machine. If you were to start at 50 grit, you would expose aggregate, Then you'd be looking @ a salt...