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Yep, Sikaflex SL works great, or similar technology. You want a polyurethane sealant, not latex caulk

I agree with FJ4FUN, at this point it probably *won’t* crack, but I always like to give a warning. Here are a cpl pics with them coated and uncoated

Cracks should be opened up using a angle grinder with 4.5" masonry blade then filled with a flexible epoxy joint filler after the floor is ground, and before any epoxy is applied. You can over-fill, and re-grind the joints/cracks, or strike them smooth and epoxy right over them within the...

If going epoxy, Gouges should be cleaned out, wire brushed, vacuumed, primed with a thinned down epoxy, and filled with your epoxy joint filler wet on wet. Meaning prime them with a light coat, then joint fill immediately and let it all cure together. You can coat around the water heater, or...

You can add aluminum oxide to your topcoat to add slip resistance. Lab floors are cool and look nice, just keep in mind the joints usually will show eventually after you fill them. As long as you're cool with that, go for it. Or fill them with a flexible sealer afterwards. You can also add a...

I'd suggest you perform a moisture test before anything, either Plastic Sheet Method and/or Calcium Chloride. If there is moisture you need get rid of it using a ton of air flow. If moisture is always present you'll need to measure it and find an appropriate product, if that is your final...

Manufacturer and product name?

Do the metallic coats with 100% solids epoxy. Top coat with Polyaspartic. Be sure to sand in-between coats. I’d suggest using the vendors you have on this site

In my opinion, the case for "losing small parts" on flake floors is blown way out of proportion. People act like you drop a screw or something and it is gone into the abyss for hours, maybe even days or weeks. This is simply not the case. Once you are level with the floor, almost anything is...

Dye all day

Is your current sealer a penetrating sealer? Can you provide pics??

If you install baseboard on top of the carpet, when you go to replace the carpet, you have to remove ALL your base... unless you leave some weird gap I guess, which doesn't look good / isn't professional. If you install baseboard before carpet, you will have to brush on a final coat after the...

Looks great!

The problem here looks to me like the floor had epoxy applied to it, but it didn't have a clear protective poly coat applied to it. Polyurethane/polyaspartic/polyurea are more than just clear coats, they add hardness and abrasion resistance. Also help hide scratches. I'd suggest cleaning then...

Concrete Dyeing has pretty much taken off and improved where acid stain lacked. You can make subtle color changes or have dynamic sharp lines depending on your method of application and how strong you mix the dye. The vendors on here have all of that information. I prefer to use denatured...

OK, good luck 🤞

It seems to me like you are rushing it and not installing this properly. The acid must be neutralized before you coat it. You are probably going to have delamination issues in the future. I'm curious to why you did not neutralize the acid. Pressure washing only drives it further into the slab...

If you can reach out to Devoe, request a light Gray color pack. Then, purchase a Touch-up Kit of one of their clear 100% solids epoxies and add the color pack. If you cannot find a clear 100% solids epoxy touchup kit thru your Devoe rep, use one of the vendors here. It doesn't necessarily need...

You may want to try a test spot before hand. Because with your resin, I don’t know.

If your prime coat is in good shape and not delaminating, I personally wouldn’t go to bare concrete. This is what I would suggest…Run some 80 metals on it, until completely deglossed. At that point take a razor knife and poke around a bit, if the coating is sound, adhered, and cured, just go...