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Thanks for that picture, I was wondering about all that weight hanging off one side like that. I see the little turnbuckle.

Sorry for the delay, yes that’s a wheel dresser. It’s very similar to the manual okamotos I ran at work.

Yes just manual. It does have a coolant tank and pump and a balancer. It’s an 8x16 I’ve only ran Okamotos at work, so I’m curious about the accuracy. That depends on more than one factor though. It seems smooth and tight.

I won this Grinder at Auction yesterday. I still have to pay and bring it home.

keeping. I’d delete but don’t know how.

A lot of guys at work use 12 V Bosch cordless for removing sheet metal from the cnc machines quickly. I bought the 12 V Milwaukee just to be different. Bosch was cheaper at Lowes though.

Well my main concern was to keep the sandblasting from tearing up the machined and or scraped surfaces. I know what you’re saying but the plastic/Nylon I’m using usn’t perfectly smooth anyway. It’s the same stuff as commercial stall walls in restrooms.

I guess my other pic wouldn’t load because it was a panoramic view.

I spent today mapping out the bed and machining the tailstock end cover to help protect the machined and scraped surfaces from blasting. I’ve spent a lot of time doing something some may say is unnecessary or a waste of time but I think will pay off in the long run if I get into rebuilding...

I did notice the Rod was not really polished.

I bought this cart at Horrible Freight to mount the Lathe Bed to for the painter. I drilled two holes at one end and welded a small extension at the other end for the third mount. I also turned the handle around so the tailstock end would have room to go up and down in the center of the handle.

Here’s a couple tools I made. One I needed to remove the pins from the tailstock, the small one was bent and I wanted to take them out for paint anyway. It’s just a piece of scrap I had laying around that I clamped to the pin and then I screwed in my bearing puller to it to remove the pins...

When I unbolted the Headstock and went to remove it, I tried tapping it back with a deadblow hammer but that did NOT work at all and it was probably putting it in a bind also. I ended up just putting a piece of 2x6 between the headstock and the carriage and turned the handle on the carriage...

No biggie, My only experience running an HLV-H was at work and I felt like it was a Rolls Royce compared to my other unmentionable machine I sold. I was hooked and had to have one. Having only ran two other lathes in 20 years, I was hooked on the Hardinge and I now have two, both needing work.

The Monarch 10EE definitely looks like a Beefy Lathe.

Here’s a picture of Two control boxes and the gear box door stripped for new paint. As nice and easy to run as the Hardinge lathes are, they sure didn’t spend enough time on parts of the castings in my opinion smoothing out imperfections from the casting process. As I cleaned up 48 years of...

Well it looks like your machine has quite a bit more rust, but mechanically how is it? My compound is all busted up, bearing race in the tailstock was busted, and the shifter fork in the gearbox was broke.

I know you can get metric gears for it but it’s an english machine as far as I can tell, at least from looking at the dials anyway. I’m not sure if it has metric gears in it yet or not because I was told when I bought it that it was a Metric Machine but the dials did Not indicate that, so I...

The first thing to come apart was the tailstock. I noticed it felt kind of rough and when I got it apart I found a broken race. I also found another worn piece in the tailstock and I’ll have to edit this later as I forgot the name of the part. I also milled some off the face of the...

Please, Hardinge HLV-H rebuild material only Thanks. I picked up this 1972 HLV-H early this year and finally started tearing it down for a rebuild about mid summer. A little background, I have about 20 years experience running a Mill, and Lathe, 10 weeks to go in my apprenticeship in...