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They aren't cheap but maybe you can find a PAPR Respirator that would work for you?

How many acres are you mowing? Maybe find a mower with a cab.

I used butyl tape and self tappers to put one of these in my bottom of a door and the other one in the top back corner and it cut the condensation down about half. home depot vent to Bluedog's point, I do still get quite a bit of condensation, even with the doors open when there's big temp...

check out: https://diysolarforum.com/ and anything Will Prowse's youtube video's about small solar systems. Also, he has several examples on his website of systems with component lists that should be everything you'd need. https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/ What you do kind of depends on your...

Don't forget the cost of an underlayment in your calculations. I had OSB included in my engineering on my small building and am going to do it when I do the shop and house builds. For me, as a self builder the cost is minimal and I hate roofs so its nice to have a walkable surface already down...

I did a 4" pour over in a small area for almost the same reasons and wouldn't hesitate to do it again if the situation comes up in the future. I did nothing special between the slabs and there is no rebar in my new pour. Going past the edges of the current slab and making a thickened edge is a...

Measure your walls and price out the materials. Prices will greatly vary depending on the size and height of your 2 car garage and R value you want.

Depending on your investment it may be worth spending a few bucks for an attorney to send a letter requesting replacement. You definitely have defective materials (Paint) and that is covered under the warranty. Also, I would read your CC policy before filing a claim and be cautious about...

There's lots of talented people here that might be able to help. What are your issues with the machine?

I think that if a simple commodity electric hot water heater is working for you now then I see no reason why the same thing wont work in a house with 170 more sq ft. There's bigger problems to worry about.

I have about 8" of depth and I keyed it in like your original drawing. If I recall correctly I didn't need to connect the squares and they needed to be 5'x5' for my baseplate lift. my slab was pretty rough so I just made the call to go bigger since it was such a marginal increase in cost.

Atlas 10k lift manual can be found here: https://www.tooltopia.com/Atlas-Equipment-ATEATTDOHX10000X and will have the footing requirements. I did exactly what your suggesting on an Atlas baseplate lift but rather than cut out squares for the columns I did one big rectangle about 5' x 11'...

how long does a project car need to sit before its considered art and no longer a project?

You're ok with some leaking, are moving soon, dont want to spend a lot of money and dont want it to look bad. If that rubber floor material is waterproof then I think you found the perfect material. Let the next owner decide if they want something more permanent or not.

1/2" plywood painted white. Countersink your screws and put in a bare minimum of screws so you can remove later and take with you or sell on marketplace.

You really need to pick your lift first and then they have the slab requirements in the manual. I'm pretty sure your intended slab size and thickness will work for 99% of all lifts but you really need to check with the lift MFG.

What lift are you looking at buying? There's a lot of different 2 post lifts out there

I know you're trying to save as much money as possible but consider outsourcing the hole drilling to a pole barn company. If you have it all laid out and they're just swinging by after another job to punch in the holes it might not be that expensive.

I used the epoxy shield

Octal, I've been following threads like these for a few years and while I dont have any experience with the 3 other manufactures/suppliers that posted here (I will in the future for sure) I do have experience with the box store Rustoleum kit. The Rustoleum kit was nice because I could buy it...