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Looks like you're in a tough situation because that area is almost a pond with how everything is sloped and there's no way for water to leave in your back yard so the slope needs to route it down your driveway. This is a house project I'd be looking to go big on. Tear out all of the asphalt...

built in LOTO on each of the latches?

That's exactly what I mean and you can replace that area with a concrete pad or asphalt again sloped away from the garage. It's just so hard to see grade on a photo. In the photo it looks like that entire side slopes towards the tractor and would be fine. Since its not and maybe that whole side...

if you raise the door you're looking at having to waterproof the cinder blocks, cut siding, fish in new siding channel next to the door, maybe move electrical above the door and deal with a tripping hazard due to a non-standard type of construction. I think your best and easiest bet is to saw...

search for "trim-lok" you can get it and similar products on Amazon. Some of it has a metal liner that would help hold it in place.

Plan spots out of the way in your bathroom for toothbrush charging and in an accessible closet for vacuum charging.

Look into a cash out refi as an option. Today's interest rates may make that a horrible idea but as long as your credit and home equity are there the money comes with no strings other than the increased monthly payment.

Dog wash stations in the garage seem to be getting more popular. Add power outlets where you'd want cameras and for a camera doorbell. wire for a propane or natural gas generator. Maybe I'm missing something but I dont understand the reasoning for running tons of cat cable throughout a house...

Another month of progress and nothing too exciting to show. I'm not really in a hurry and just plugging away at it when there is nice weather on the weekends. OSB is done, wrap is mostly done, door and windows are installed. Next up is to finish the wrap and start on the metal wainscot. We've...

I think its already been mentioned but I'd be looking to add a beam above the doors and keep your current beam in place. It looks like you can throw a temporary post under the current beam, remove the doors and structure and get a 3x 2x10 or 2x12 beam up there in its place. You dont need...

Throw away, donate or get rid of as much as possible on a local Facebook buy-nothing group. That junky piece of furniture that you dont like is still going to be junky in the new place pack and transport your own valuables Tip the moving crew. Order them some pizza's if they're interested...

Do you mind sharing the original drafted plans and what is currently there? It sounds like your original permit was never signed off when work was completed by a previous owner. I'm starting to agree with Dig Doug that you should consider finishing the building as intended for final signoff...

I dont think they're supposed to do it but when my inspector found that the plumber cut too far into a joist he also just happened to have the business card of an engineer in his pocket that specializes in these kind of things. $200 cash, a grocery store parking lot deal and some stamped, hand...

I agree, pictures and sketches would be very helpful here. I can't see a reason why cutting the wall metal last would be a good idea. It makes more sense to me that you'd want to cut out and expose your full header beam and build off of that then flash under your wall metal and over your roof.

How are you coming up with a 30x60 5" thick slab being 60 yards of concrete? The slab should be about 30 yards, are you expecting the thickened edge to be 30 as well?

I'm not a fan of roofing or going on roofs but I have a small patio cover with standing seam that I've had to go up on top of a few times. Its steep enough that tools can't be set on it and I tended to slide down more than stay in one spot while on it. I found that if the roof is warm my boots...

just notch them where they go over the joists and be done with it. It's a quick cut and can be done with just about any saw you have laying around.

If you did spray foam it would ultimately be your choice if you wanted to cover it or not depending on your tolerance for risk, use of the building and insurance. Assuming the double bubble is considered a vapor barrier then I'd probably go with billconner's suggestion to frame it out and use...

The used ones all have a Hydraulic lift cylinder. All electric machines (electric lift) are starting to hit the market so if you're looking for a used one you'll have to wait a few years.

When I have the shed floor poured I'm going to have a slab added behind it for a saw mill so those trees will probably be 30' off the back of the shed when everything is done.