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http://www.forwardthinking.honeywell.com/products/combustion/glowfly/glowfly_feature.html Here is a link to Honeywells website and details on the igniter.

If its a Honeywell igniter you should be able to switch to their glofly igniter. It's their universal replacement igniter and is much more durable, it comes with many different brackets to be used in nearly any furnace or boiler but not all, so check the model numbers.

Basic math says it won't work very well, but if you sure everyone else is wrong, go ahead and build your tankless water heater (that's basicly what your trying to build). Let us know how it works for you, I've been wrong before but a btu is a btu, and 15,300 likely won't be enough to keep up.

If you have to replace the boiler there are some oil fired ones that can be converted. A better way to go since you already have access to propane, install a propane boiler. Converting from propane to natural gas is way cheaper and easier then going from oil to natural gas.

I would separate them, but the person to talk to would be the local permit office. If there is a building code against it they would know.

^^^^this^^^^ sounds like normal operation. Still not a bad idea to have it looked at every year.

Air flowing through insulation carrying dust will turn it dark, dirt can then feed mold.

At a factory I once worked at as a maintenance tech, we had built a wash booth that had two elements from water heaters in the open tank at the bottom. So I guess something could be built if you absolutely had to. However a water heater is a pressure vessel, and has the appropriate safety...

New b-vent can be ran up the chase that the chimney was in, however as of may non-condensing furnaces might not be available. If your planning to replace next year it wouldn't make much sense to put money into a b-vent that wont work with the new furnace.

It's impossible to know the extent of the damage without actually seeing it, however at 19 years the furnace is very old and if the insurance company will pay for replacement, go for it. Unless the ductwork is ductboard or insulated flex, it can be effectively cleaned and sanitized. If its...

There is definitely something wrong with your furnace, it sounds like it might be shutting off on limit as in its not getting enough air flow and its overheating. In the serial number digits 3 and 4 are the year of manufacture, so it was made in 1993. Carriers also have a common problem of the...

If you live in a cold climate, sprayfoam. I'm just guessing that the ceiling in the garage was removed the figure out why the room above it was always so cold. Yes the sprayfoam is more expensive, but do you want to redo the ceiling a second time?

http://www.forwardthinking.honeywell.com/products/dehumidification/dehumidification_products.html http://www.sylvane.com/santa-fe-dehumidifiers.html?source=goog&keyword=sahara%20dehumidifier&s_kwcid=TC|3149|sahara%20dehumidifier||S||20089525378 I prefer the Honeywell dehumidifiers but the...

Don't even worry about the small amount of fins that are bent, it won't change anything.

If your heat absolutely can't be down for a set time (hydronic freezing danger) I would have a spare for every part that, 1) will prevent the system from running and 2) take longer then a couple hours to get.

It's a little more work to put the filter on the side, but it will flow better, and be easier to keep the filter in place. If the filter is just sitting in front of the door opening, its probably going to fall over all the time.

Brand spanking new 80% furnaces are cheaper then you might think, if your not paying someone else to do the install. Put it on the second floor and run ducting to the garage space. You've already got a gas line up there, and you wouldn't have to build a shed for it.

http://www.markbeiser.com/HVAC/WOS/goodmanhacks/gmprings3.jpg http://www.awtreyhvac.com/images/he/he14.jpg http://www.awtreyhvac.com/images/he/he09.jpg My mobil makes posting pics difficult so here are some links to pictures of the rivets and an example of bad ones.

The shed is fine if that's your preference, dc90 will have condensation to deal with and you have to keep it from freezing. IIRC the 1993 year would be refering to ashre regulations, the serial number indicates it was made in 1998. I think that furnace has punch through rivets that tend to fail...

Some furnaces can be laid on their side, then you could mount it on the ceiling just like a hotdawg heater. If you have more info on the furnace like model and serial numbers maybe some pictures I could tell you what would be involved with hanging it. Also it will still need some ductwork, not...