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I'd guess a Wilton too which is made in China. Happens all the time , brand name transfers mfg and the new Chinese OEM starts overproducing and selling outside the brand, or just gives the design to a sister company. Navigating vises is a bit of a minefield right now since brand name means...

ERA though if he ever uses a nail gun.

It's in the middle of the bay and not passing through studs...it's fine. Just like you don't need nail plates the whole distance a drop runs on the side of a stud. If you want to do something, do like @mike93lx said.

The ones enlarging 1/2" holes in 1" thick steel plate , that's usually a little beyond your average Lowe's shopper.

You're over my head there ..... As I understand it the AW additives improve shear stability so I'm guessing by default the base oils are even more limited without it. I'm assuming if they can break down oil in a roller bearing in 20 hours far enough to make a measurable difference in viscosity...

Well, of course. You can do things a lot differently if you're using something rigid, with a controlled feed and speed. In a shop I think a core drill would be better. In practice, yeah, on a machine, happens all the time, but the processes are usually designed to avoid it. In the field, with...

CEC-L45-A-99....yes.. and it tests how much improvement the AW additives make in shear stability as compared to the base oil alone. It almost always does improve it's shear stability index. I any case I've yet to see an available iso 32 on the shelf without an additive package.

The shear stability test considered the most severe is running it in a tapered roller bearing for 20 hours as compared to the other tests that are considered less severe that involve passing it through an orifice at high pressure.

Don't know who, but can say for certain in China, its on the package label.

Gear to gear pressure alone can break down the oil itself. Oxidation makes it slightly acidic...wear products will contaminate it, moisture too, and nothing is totally sealed....hell I think there's a vent on that which means it's breathing in dust every time it cools down.

Yes, wiki definitely needs to get straight. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Austenitic_stainless_steel https://www.eclipsemagnetics.com/resources/are-all-stainless-steels-magnetic/#:~:text=The%20austenitic%20stainless%20steel%20grade,%2C%20deforming%2C%20etc.)...

Lol, that's a bridge reamer and thick steel plate is exactly what it's designed for. Thick plate, in particular over 20mm in thickness is the perfect application for a bridge reamer. Though you may want to use an impact driver at that thickness if you plan to do more than one or two. Though...

I just picked up a 7mm to replace a borrowed one....not too old US Armstrong from a pawn shop for $3

A reamer is the proper way to enlarge a hole. If you don't need to do it often a cheap one will be fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BCVPZ9Z9/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Its them covering their ***/ complying with rules. Its got a cord, so the frame of your new " appliance" must be grounded. Ignoring that it's literally just a power strip mounted in the box. Since the cord passes through a metal frame it's possible for it to become electrified if it wore in...

What you're looking for is likely the detent bumpers. No idea what slides a Costco uses but there's a direction for you. Maybe look at accuride detents, or Craftsman...etc. see if something matches what you have. Video at 0:36 shows what are most likely the type you have so you know what to...

304 is austenitic....non magnetic. More likely something in the 400 series typical of household goods. Also not necessarily cheap....martensitic and ferritic stainless may be less corrosion resistant than the 300 series but is often selected for other properties....ie. it can be much harder or...

Maybe not....but something similar set wise. Seems these aren't actually German manufacture and may be pretty poor after reading reviews.

I can't recall a time I needed a short ball end. Being as a ball end doesn't allow your drive tool to move very far if it's short I guess chances are good if I can get something in there canted just an 1/8" I can probably get something else in directly over top. I think this is pretty well...

For what you seem to prefer I'd maybe just grab these and go from there. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019C9UCC/?tag=atomicindus08-20