Search results

I don’t doubt tubes will be available, I buy extra simply to not worry about same color. You don’t have spare bulbs and batteries in a house? How is that any different? This is kind of different from having spare fixtures And btw I decided not to run spare line for EV :)

Going with tubes and getting extra box. Should be as future proof as it gets

Yep, dimming was afterthought. I positioned lights like so just in case I need 50%. There will be 2 more garage opener bulbs over doors. This is not going to be a shop, just garage. I have another 2car where I have lift and do work. This one honestly probably going to be party place if I have...

I mean this IS standard. T8, T4 etc. and there is zoo with all kind of random shaped modern LEDs

I can always install boxes later if needed as well. I also learned that I will not make a change in a future. Future proof for me means I can buy tubes if needed. Type B T8 sounds like very future proof..

Thanks for the article! It makes all sense now. I think my go to solution will be Type C LED T8(?) 8ft. If such thing available. And dimmable. If I can have that - it's probably what I need. I also have those buzzing fluorescent fixtures in my old garage, probably good practice to convert them...

Much clearer! So, no ballasts, need "LED driver". This one linked at HD also says lumens, in comments people say bulbs not included. Guess need to go to store? Because yes, if it's metal box with driver and bulbs and light is OK and connector is standard - might be good option.

Okk. So I just need to find fixtures without "internals"? Is there such thing as standard LED tubes?

Choices is good, but not like that... With million brands LEDs.. I am in a situation where I have to finally choose what I do and how I do. I think I made up my mind. Garage is 34 deep and about 37 wide? Will do 15x of 8ft fixtures on 2 different circuits. Will do wiring behind drywall, with...

For now I decided to do following and see how it goes: 1. Get nice 10-12-13-14 3/8 impact sockets and extensions 2. Ordered smaller hose and swivel adapters 3. Will repair hose reel that I had on a ceiling (leaking) And see how it goes with 3/8 Snap On. Oh, yes, might sell it and get this...

I don’t see any haters here. All valid reasons. Noone arguing that if you need to be remote or if you don’t have compressor or if you do work constantly- cordless is a wAy to go

I use whatever GoodYear rubber hose I got from HF. It's quality in a way that it still works 10 years later. But I don't like it very much to drag on fenders, etc. I am not sure if it's high flow connectors or not, I just know I was buying whatever those "mechanic" connectors, not carpentry...

Yep, I start thinking this way. What airhose would you recommend? Perhaps thinner one? A lot of times I find it hard to get to places with impact as well And what about assembly? Do you use impact for that?

OP here again. I have 80 gallon compressor plumbed in with outlets in garage. Hose is available too. I use impact for taking wheels off mainly. 3/8 impact used very few times. To me switching to electric would also mean getting sockets. Last time when I was taking pan off I was too lazy to...

Ha! I have 3/8 snap on and 1/2 Husky (been working great for me) and 3/8 ratchet Craftsman. All would have to go. With battery tools my story is like this.. I had Makita 14.4 drill long time ago. Batteries went bad, replacements were as much as new drill. I bought Ridgid set with 18V batteries...

Wow.. OK, I guess maybe it's time to upgrade. And get rid of air tools. I assume they worth nothing this days.. But still have to use impact sockets with those, right? If I have nice Hazet set which I use with 3/8 ratchet I don't want to use them with cordless?

I am not pro mechanic, just working on my own stuff. More often than not I am using regular 1/2, 3/8 ratchets. Last night I was changing oil in my truck and had to take like 10 12mm screws to get pan out. Then I remember seeing in more and more videos that people just use electric drivers which...

Why? Can't I just use 50A rated plug/outlet/whip?

Can you explain what 60 degree column is? Why can't I just run it along studs? I did it before and it passed inspection just fine. This is behind drywall BTW

But I can do #6NM-b? I think it would be cheaper vs running inside conduit?