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What kind of cable or conduit is this? I want to re-route the wiring. But I can't tell if it's "metallized cable (MC)" or "flexible metal conduit (FMC)". They are different and use different fittings I think.

Does anyone know what's up with the .model file type? What actually is it? I'm finding lots of models on Printables that are only available as .model, and it doesn't seem to work in Cura.

Back when Cree was making lightbulbs we evaluated Feit and they were the strongest competitor at the time...better than Cree in most respects. But that was like 7 years ago and the product lifecycle for any given LED lightbulb seems to be a year or two so I don't know how you shop for quality...

I worked for Cree for 5 years. The first bulbs were made in North Carolina. Cree changed its corporate name and sold the entire lighting business along with the Cree brand name to some conglomerate a year or two back. Almost certainly they are made in the same Chinese factories as everything...

Yes but I don't like every bulb in the house being mismatched colors and brightness; it's ugly. You end up with a 5-light fixture over the kitchen table with 3 different colors, two different brightness, and half of them dim and the rest don't. And I don't want people using the wrong bulbs in...

I just looked at those at Menards. They aren't approved for enclosed luminares. There are other bulbs rated for enclosed fixtures, but they aren't dimmable, and so on. I don't want to have to look up an application flow chart every time I need to replace a light bulb, and tired of tenants...

I'm still looking for a qualified universal incandescent-replacement LED bulb Requirements: 2700k color temperature Good dimmability Rated for damp locations Rated for enclosed fixtures "75W replacement" or above (1200+ lumens) This is frustratingly hard to find, especially because...

In this case I have the old version that uses mini-USB, and they no longer sell the hardwire kit for it. I just have to use to USB adapter it came with which is almost the same thing as the hardwire kit. The hardwire kit is just a USB power supply anyway; I need that regardless and I still...

It's a Viofo mini 2. I'm aware of dashcams with the combined front and rear cameras. But I have typically preferred to just install normal dash cams front and rear. Partly because they are cheaper, because I already installed a front and decided I want to add a rear later, or something like...

I'm installing a rear dashcam so I will be running about 12 feet of wire to my rear liftgate. I have to snake it through the rubber cable grommet, and under plastic moulding, so I don't want wire that's too fat or stiff. On the other hand I don't want it to overheat or melt. How do I decide...

It's not going to be used for food. I'm going to store expensive optics in it. I never transport expensive things in a bag that looks like a bag of expensive things. Always use a lunchbox, tackle box or diaper bag.

I have a cloth lunchbox and I want to take sheets of closed cell foam to make custom compartments inside. Is there a type of glue that works well?

Like everyone else my cars have these pinch welds on the side, designed to be used with the scissor jack. Jacking them up from the same point with a floor jack would presumably be a good place to jack up the car, except the pinch weld being damaged. If you look at how the OEM scissor jacks...

This is what I came up with. One of the comparator/relay boards works perfectly with just a doide and a cap on the input to make an adjustable delay circuit. It switches on with the slightest motion of the dynamo wheel and I have it adjusted to stay on about 3 mm minutes. It only draws about 20...

It looks like there's already a heater. It seems like the coils are staying defrosted, and the drain isn't blocked, but ice is building up on the outside. It's probable mostly harmless.

It still works fine and did the same thing last winter. I built a roof over ot thinking that would help but it doesn't seem to have made a difference.

Is this a normal thing and should I do anything about it?

It's hard to find good information because "won't discharge to death" usually / sometimes means "won't discharge to death when connected to official tools". Built-in circuitry varies, but none of the batteries seem to have any mechanism to actually disconnect the cells from the terminals when...

Putting in a low-voltage cutoff in the battery would require a big relay in each battery to actually do the disconnection. A solid state switch capable of switching 10+ amps would be even more expensive and more lossy than a relay. So I guess it's cheaper to just have the tool stop drawing...

I found out my M12 batteries don't have any battery management or protection circuitry in them. That means if you use them with those 12v adapters, etc, you can discharge them too far and ruin them. I assume Milwaukee tools all have the proper circuitry in the tools. Do all 18V batteries that...