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try using a termination T if your going with z-vent....the hood may work with or without damper ....but i am not sure that would be code you should make some sort of box to support the thimble 10/10 should work....2 inch clearance to combustible's do you have soffit on the side you are venting...

looking for a vendor for new yorker boiler...wood/coal boiler made in 2008-would also be interested to see if anyone has something like this tied into home heating unit...and what is being used as a "dump" zone

didnt read all the posts on this but you may want to check the heat exchanger for any cracks/hole's

are those electric heaters ? oh i see your on the left coast...place looks great....does the floor dry or do you have to squegee it when car's are wet...was thinking about coating my floor

i guess nail's are faster....i used pilot drill bit/screws after talking to a few carpenters...i usually just blasted screws in with the impact...but it isn't as strong that way..i have the 5/8 rock..it is very heavy/solid... my trusses were 4' oc though

10.41 while running ...flame looks good..is it throwing a code or are you just concerend about flame? check your safeties to make sure they work and call it complete.

street131- hi....of course you can do the b-vent hookup...i would pitch it slightly out towards daylite in this type of job. the codes have changed and stainless steel piping with high temp. gasketing is the new pipe ....no expert on this stuff...so do you own research(or not)... the b-vent is...

your call...you get what you pay for...new system will cost big but will be very efficent....i'm cheap so my answer would be no to the big upfront/big number on parts and service...burn wood not dollars

get the model number,check the heat exchanger first,load a few pictures of unit...is there a transformer in the unit 120/24 volt?

box duct,duct mastic(sealer),foil tape..... it's a sizable job to take on...is it ac only,flex runs to outlet's,central return?

no issue's....just watch for nesting in chimney...add birdscreen

Gerald o- i would check those flare nut's with a soapy water mix...guessing its r-410a refrigerant....thats a "blend" ...you may find traces of oil to get you in the direction of leak....if the codes do indicate low refigerant....it will mean leak repair/check with nitrogen.... .....and pull a...

bigz- are you rotating the heater 180 degree's? if so...I would suggest not leaving the gas valve upside down...dont care what other's may tell you..... IT AINT RITE-:lol_hitti

:thumbup: respect

yep....a little birdie told me that:beer:...bad joke i know....but those thing's will nest in cap or pipe if they can...check it out...actually take the pipe apart back to inducer fan if possible

sounds like the "cap" you mention could be acting as a baffle.... we had issue with old concrete tank...wound up with a baffle setup on inlet and outlet of tank...basically a "t" fitting ... we had the tank pumped while still using scotts septic safe tp.....the driver asked what paper we used...

hi utciv- the post's you have there....are concrete with bolts thru the wooden posts? did you make a footing under them? looks wild...no rot there for sure...is there a water issue in your area? ....barn looks very nice.... if you are finishing the walls anyway...i suggest using a flexable...

yes there can be a one pipe system as you mentioned....any other pipe leaving the tank that is above the boiler?looks like the flow is going thru it...that red valve is a flo check device...you may see an arrow indicating direction... gonna need some service...bet it still runs though...get an...

maybe you can add some support framing now for a platform type storage idea that will be used later-sounds easier than digging thru that blown in insulation...

just my 2 cents here....why add all the framing lumber...use foam to cut/cobble between girts and behind posts (1 inch)..add another layer on top of that...story pole/mark posts for girt location..get some great stuff pro-cans...cover it with osb...done