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Anything with WiFi will need continuous power. On 24V thermostats that's why you always see posts about running a "C" common wire to complete the circuit for continuous power. In this case, the line voltage thermostats with WiFi will need either a neutral (if 120VAC) or the opposite leg (if...

Are you sure you aren't thinking of GenerLink? https://shopgenerlink.com/ The Enphase collar doesn't have connections large enough to support any sort of current going into the collar connections.

From what I can tell from the Enphase spec sheets, seems like the collar is some sort of control/islanding device to allow for the home to run off grid when needed. https://enphase.com/store/storage/gen4/iq-meter-collar...

No 5" wide ones though. :( https://www.filtrete.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b5005597009/

Do you have natural gas available? If not, and if only going electric, you may be better off with two smaller minisplits rather than one large one (and the large wire that goes with supporting it).

I had an 825LM that came free with my Liftmaster garage door opener years ago, but it sadly died after about 5 years. It had an option to use one of the remote buttons, but I only used it paired to the opener light. When it worked, it was great to turn on another light in the garage. Doesn't...

Just to make sure it isn't anything funny with the thermostat, do you have a Common ("C") terminal connected on the Nest?

If you are sticking with electric, I'd seriously consider replacing both tanks with as large of a heat pump water heater (HPWH) as possible - 75 gallons or so.

Yikes. My attached garage is roughly half the square footage and uses a 6kW boiler. If your water heater is wired like a normal water heater, you are only using 3000W at a time (top, then bottom). Then the timer on it is making sure you are only getting half of that 3000W! At a minimum, I'd...

Price was about the same, which was my motivation to get moving (as there aren't a lot of things that are going down in price these days!).

It took long enough, but I finally broke down and picked up the replacement control board kit, from Blue Ridge Sales. Using a combination of the instructions in the kit, installation manuals from the latest Thermolec boilers, and these instructions...

I wonder if @Buckaroo5 was thinking of running a large gauge cable and landing in a subpanel? If you can install an outside NEMA 3R panel and maintain NEC clearances, this seems like a good approach. If it is in line of site of the outside units, it would also satisfy the outside disconnect...

What's the goal here? If you plan on running the battery tender beyond a few hours, the idle consumption of the inverter will drain the power station in about a day.

You could skip the transformer and contactor and use an all-in-one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VRW52NQ?tag=atomicindus08-20

That's the beauty of using electricity as a fuel source - math is pretty easy. If the electric boiler is 18kW, you just take 18 times the cost per kilowatt to get an hourly price. Let's say the price is around the nation wide average, $0.14/kWh. 18 x 0.14 is $2.52 per hour to run the boiler...

Your electric bill is going to be rough the next few months, unless you get to work on the insulation side of the equation.

Wow, I'm not sure what is more impressive - the specs or the price! Going down the Lutron route crossed my mind, but the distances seems a bit much. It might work if you have Lutron hubs in both locations, but then you are at a high cost and complexity.

Is the manual coming in the main in physical form? Or did you get a PDF sent via email?

How are you still able to use fuses?

Interesting pump relay, I like that it has an Exercise function for the pump: "Exercise – pumps turn ON for 30 sec. after 72 hours of inactivity" www.braeburnonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/Spec_-_AKL06P.pdf