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Because the boiler/pumps/controls probably don't care if power is out for a few seconds, you can possibly just leave one of your battery units connected to it full time. During normal operation the AC power will pass through. When the power goes out, there will be a slight "blip' as the battery...

Correct, there are tons of products that monitor energy usage. But, if you are the type that has such a system in place, then what value does this type of Smart GFCI provide? If power monitoring isn't part of the Leviton product, I'm not seeing much value add for the end user beyond "is the...

This would work great for a sump pump, if you could get some real time data and historical data on the app on when the pump was running (and for how long).

You can get a small transfer switch just for this purpose. Random example: https://www.amazon.com/Kohree-Generator-Transfer-Predrilled-Switcher/dp/B0C379SNRY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

To counteract the thermostat cycling every time the garage door opened (which, in practice, the temp only shows dropping once the door closes and the air settles in the garage) I switched to a Nest thermostat. The Nest thermostat let me program all sorts of different time schedules to drop the...

Do you need to/want to shut off the water heater along with the pump? If not, you can use any number of relays and a low voltage smart thermostat to do what you want to do. Just cycle the pump as needed and keep the tank hot during your heating season. For my garage radiant heat I have a Nest...

Radiant in the floor? If so, I'm not sure I'd waste the time to move air around. For de-humidification purposes, if you keep the space warm enough for a dehumidifier to work, it should not be much of an issue.

The real question is - can you service the indoor unit without banging your head on the door hardware? That might drive a different location, even if it isn't the best for comfort or heat transfer.

As theoldwizard1 has said, no need for variable speed DC motors, the technology already exists to variable speed an AC one. EG4 (and I'm sure others) do offer a mini split heat pump that can be directly powered by solar panels...

If you haven't had the chance to run your solar system through a full winter yet, my advice would be to do nothing and see where you land on actual production. I have a spreadsheet where I track daily/monthly production and, let me tell ya, the winter months can be BRUTAL for actual watts...

I don't have any of my own, but family members that do use UFOs all tend to wire them the same. That is - plug them in and leave the dimming wires alone. So maybe a low cost option that doesn't have the dimming capability?

There is a company that makes a geothermal style small system to supplement heating/cooling. https://wellconnectgeo.com/ From what I understand, it is rather expensive. Cheaper than a full blown geothermal system where you have to drill wells or trenches, but still a lot of money. Maybe...

Radiant floor heat? Or something else? Is the addition a garage? Or living space?

Where are the outside units going? East? North?

https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-808-how-to-prolong-lithium-based-batteries

From what little I understand about lithium/LiFePO4 batteries - that battery type likes to live between 20% and 80%. So wouldn't using an AGM charger that doesn't get high enough voltage for a full charge actually extend the life of the battery?

If you have the more common UFO fixtures, do they have dimming capabilities? Maybe the better solution is to turn them all on and dim as needed?

Jumper Y to R at the thermostat. Or at the air handler.

Does the contactor (the relay that turns on the compressor and outside fan) in the outside unit function correctly?

What do you mean when you say it runs normal when you pull the Y off both the outside unit and the thermostat - that it actually runs both the inside fan and the outside fan/compressor? Is the coil going bad in the outside contactor?