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Here is a pic of mine. The center door is 12' wide x 12'6" tall. My interior wall height to the bottom of the sheetrock is 13' 11 1/2". The walls were built exactly to 14' tall. This is the tallest door that I could fit in the hole.

On an almost 60 yr roof and it's starting to get wavy, sounds like a pretty good deal. Considering all of the hold and cold cycles it went through, the glue will break down. As noted above, that's all I ever see up here with ton tons of snow on it. 7/16" with the clips works great.

I'd paint the man door to match. Looks good

I agree - looks sharp. Get some discount on the build and run it.

Once in the air, what would the plan be to create a new sill plate/foundation?

I know this is dumb, but is the hydraulic fluid full?

It's free - http://www.avenir-online.com/AvenirWeb/LoopCAD/LoopCADTrial.aspx

The LM8500 comes with an automatic lock that throws a bolt into the track. Thus making it difficult to roll the door up. When going on vacation, just disengage the motor and keep the lock in place. Heck, you could even throw some vice grips on the other track.

Still - why waste your money and time when in 2 years you're going to replace the asphalt anyway. The concrete that's placed is going to be fine. It doesn't look pretty now and won't with a temp fix anyway. Just run it. I wouldn't sweat it. JMO

If it's only 1/2", why worry. Just drive over it.

I'd just get some good oil based primer and prime the heck out the osb. With all the work you just did on putting it down, multiply that by 10 and that's how much more work you'll have to rip it up. The moisture from under won't be an issue as you have tons of ventilation around it. It's not...

I would build 2 sections of 10'. If working by yourself, stand the first one and nail it down and also have a temp brace either going to the back of the garage or floor. Then stand and nail the second section together and to the floor. Again brace that section and join them with the second top...

Does it have to be 16'? That's a big gate going into a backyard.

Why they never offered the Duramax in a burb always boggled me. That should be a fun project! Better get the little man a set of jack stands! lol

Most I've seen on single story buildings or garages are a 16"x16" thickened slab. If there's going to be a crawl space or basement or second story, then a footer with stem wall is utilized. If the dirt work is done correctly, a mono is all you need for a shop. Compaction is key along with proper...

That last shot is awesome. I bet that's a Suburban parked in there! Haha

Craigslist. If not in a rush, just keep looking. It'll show up eventually. I bought mine a year and a half before I even broke ground and saved over $2K

When I was sketching up my addition, a engineer buddy of mine looked over my drawings and made the following recommendations - 5/8ths j-bolts, osb sheeting outside, spray foam, simpson flat strapping in x-braces, osb interior and then sheetrock over that. Nailing schedule was 4" with #10's. I...

Thank You for that idea as well. I just installed 3 of them, and after reading this thread got real nervous about going on trips. What a bummer to hear that a great product could leave you stranded. I'd hate to think that while I'm at work, the door is open and it's minus 20. That could turn...

What a great setting for a shop. It's turning out great!