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sorry, but any recommendations are near useless without knowing the following, how long of a driveway? how much room beside the driveway? and is it clear/roomy on both sides? gravel/paved/interlocking? hill or flat? sidewalk and other areas to clear too? straight or winding paths? 200' of...

sorry, but no way can someone estimate the time it would take someone else to do that job. 1. have you ever used a plane before? 2. have you ever used "winding sticks" before? 3. how clean (knot free) is the wood, and how off/warped is it? 4. what plane are you using & how sharp is it? 5. how...

if you have ONE good WOOD mitre saw, and want to use it for metal too then you will end up with one mediocre metal saw and a crappy wood saw. if I spent $500 on a good SCMS I would NOT use it for metal, unless I was willing & wanting to buy another one soon after. if you can't find a $100 or...

Fiskars X32 or whatever size you like, best of both worlds for splitting. light, well ballanced, lasts a long long time, hardly ever gets "stuck". 1. a maul is great for tough/knotty woods, but ***** *** when it's clean/green/cold wood... it's just wasted energy swinging around 2x or 3x the...

while the are tough to put it, they "could" also pull out. if glued in, and not so tight that the glue is squeezed out, the glue bond would be stronger.

good point. so often cut my own I had forgotten that.

line the wood dowels grains up with the table tops grain. help hide them a bit better.

buy normal bases, and build custom kickers @ whatever height needed to fit space.

cutting small pieces ***** tho. of cuts is fine, but you need a large enough piece under the track to support it and/or clamp too. I really like my track saw (used it last night to make a trundle bed for under a bunk bed out of 1/4" pine ply) but once the work piece gets small, a table saw is...

the end caps just require a bit of persuasion. few firm taps of piece of flat brass, or hardwood with a rubber mallet on the lip of the end cap where it meets centre cyclinder. work around the motor and it will seperate. I would NOT hit the shaft itself. while it would probably work, it will...

sell the krl, that is now the low quality/outcast cabinet of the bunch! wonderful hail

if you build the 1/2 height doors, you can still make them work as full height. get them mounted and working on their own, then once lined up mark each for a biscuit to be cut into top of bottom door, bottom of top door (may need 2 for wide doors) use a biscuit cutter, and paint each biscuit...

not quite the same. mitre box is nice for cutting the basic angle, but the mitre trimmer takes slivers/shavings off to get perfect joints.

do your humidity levels change quite a bit from season to season (winter - summer being extremes)? not sure what your hole layout looks like, but with that many I have to guess it's not correct for attaching wood to metal (or anything else that doesn't expand/contract like wood does). with 3...

my Myford ML7 also uses an OXA, and it is small. I also ordered an AXA qctp thinking the OXA was so small... but the AXA was too big for my lathe. I wish the AXA would have worked as I do find the OXA to small... but without major modifications it wasn't gonna happen.

any thought to replacing the motor in your old saw? (unless it's one of the odd direct drive flex line deals) if it was working fine for you before, no reason it can't continue to do so. otherwise, do you need/want protable or movable? portable is a jobsite saw, movable is a hybrid/cabinet...

is there much hand work involved in these builds, or is the cnc router used most of the time? very imaginitive design, and I can't fathom the time involved in programming a cnc to place all the butterflies perfectly (if done by cnc) if done by hand, I'm even more impressed! is there any...

great thread and work happy camping!

no, that's the reason rates go up. insurance is for unpredictable, unforseeable, unpreventable incidents... being and idiot isn't either of those. willful negligence/ignorance can be prevented.

define best value. will you use it often, for extended periods of time? the Fein would be worth the extra $$ using it for trimming your casing after new floors, a flush trim hand saw or a HF cheapo will suffice, regardless COI. determine what you want it for, how often you will use it. $300 for...